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Hello all,
anyone know where I can can replacement parts to replace throw out bearing? Any advice or information would be apprecieated.
Thank you Roberto

Last time I checked (recently) both Max Merritt and Kanter had a modern sealed bearing to replace the original open bearing. If you go this route, don't forget to block off the Bijur oiler hose (if it hasn't already been) that connects to the bearing or you'll end with with a very oily clutch.

If you get a new open bearing, then it's essential that the Bijur oiler is functioning and that the proper drip plug (its the smallest size) is clean or the bearing will run dry in short order. The drip plug is a DC-000 and I believe these are available from Bruce Blevins.

Hello,
Yes the system has been disconnected, and I will get a self lubricated bearing to replace the old one. I have to say it sure sounds ugly. Any other parts I should replace while I have this all torn apart?
Thank you again for all your help.

While I had it all apart I'd for sure take a look at the condition of the flywheel, friction disc, and pressure plate. It's no fun if you end up taking it all apart again some few miles in the future, that transmission is one heavy mother!!

I would check and shim the sycos if necessary, especially 3rd which u cant get to unless the trans is out.

I believe those bearings being sold are not sealed.

I believe those bearings being sold are not sealed.
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You may very well be correct in that; I did ultimately install a sealed bearing and blocked the Bijur line so perhaps I sourced it other than from Max or Kanter Bros. It just takes a phone call to them to provide an answer. I'm curious about it now so I'll make a phone call and ammend this post when I get new information. I do have an original throwout bearing assembly handy if a picture would be useful.

PS - contacted Kanter Bros., their current throwout bearing offering for the 11th series Eight is a sealed bearing. $85.

Well this weekend my wife had me doing other things and the Packard just stared at me all weekend long.
I apprecieate all the good information you have given me and will make all the neccessary repairs while the trans is out. Before this the trans would get hot and make it diffucult to shift. Someone told me to use the heavier oil and it appears that did the trick, however now the throw out bearing and related will have to be looked at.
Thank you Roberto

My 34 trans synchros are a bit worn so I prefer a bit heavier gear oil to reduce gear spin between shifts and just shift a little slower or occasionally double-clutch if I need a fast shift. I'd recommend simple SAE 140 mineral gear oil (GL-1). If by getting harder to shift when "hot" you mean poorer synchronization during shifts, that's one thing and a heavier gear oil will help, but you can also adjust the synchros while the transmission is out of the car (see service letters for 1934). But if you mean harder to move the gear shift lever from gear to gear, then you've got another issue I suspect. There is a lot of friction to generate heat in a transmission so getting warm (hot?) is normal enough.