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here is the weekend update.

felt cut out and put in the rotor mount on the distributor. hope that works.

the lower bellhousing was a total PITA to get on. even tried a jack under it and using the weight of the motor...which only resulted in the rubber seperating on the trans mount. glad it happened now instead of later....fyi it was the original rubber...i was being cheap and it looked good to the naked eye....just goes to show...i may not be good even if it looks okay. glad i got my balancer redone now after that

anyways after many trips to Lowes for the correct bolts etc, i got it all put together and got the starter in. granted with longer bolts then needed for the starter, but i wasn't taking another trip to Lowes. i made it work. lol

hooked up the batter and turned her over a few times....it went smoothly and no noises out of the norm. so that mean i did a good job i suppose. we'll see with the thing actually runs.

starting the generator rebuild now and i have a rotor coming and spark plug wires. correct AC radiator cap too.

fan belts were from O'reilly's for 5 bucks each and the quality looks good to me.

trans is dripping form a few of the drain plugs. hope that goes away when i get everyting buttoned up nicely. lets hope.

and don't worry i'll touch up the paint on the sides of the lower bellhousing. had to brush off some paint to get the thing to go together and that was collateral damage, but easily fixed.
Hank

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Hank, nice work. Making progress.

I have decided how to display the door. Right now I am in the process of getting it cleaned. Man, is it filthy! I am using Murphy's Oil Soap and it seems to be doing a good job of getting the crud off of the surface without changing the old looking finish. I'll post some photos when I get the job done.

(o[]o)

cool man, i can't wait to see the pics!

well the spark plug wires i got from summit came today. they are perfectly fine, except they are copper core, BUT BUT BUT...they are RFI suppressed and stainless spiraled around the copper core, so they should work fine with the pertronix and if i ever wanted to switch back over to points. best of both worlds...copper solid core with RFI supression.

they have 90 degree boots on them, which are not original obviously, but neither are the stainless bolts all over the motor now...so idgas. PLUS....they only cost 13 bucks. BAM!

we'll see how well they work when i get it all up and running. if not....then i'll buy the pertronix brand for 55 bucks....that are carbon-impregnated fiberglass center that is spiral-wound with stainless steel alloy. Plus they are the same brand as the eletronic ignition unit.

pictures of the new rotor and showing the box for the new wires. the wires are made by standard as well. the rotor is a perfect match, just doesnt' say delco remy and nobody will ever see it anyways.

the packard wire is the green and the standard is the white, i cannot see a difference in the way they are made except the color...so maybe the Packard wire is just as good all along. i have no clue. take it for what it is, all a bunch of crap, cause i have no real clue if i know what i'm talking about.


Hank

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Hank,

Another progress report. One step closer to Salado.

I can't tell from the photos of the rotor, but is it the type with a built-in resistor? If so, is this compatible with your Petronix? Normally, you do not need nor do you want to have a resistor rotor and resistor wires. I forget, what type of spark plugs are you using? Are they resistor type too?

Keep up the good work.

(o[]o)

i have no idea on the rotor, its a direct replacement. i don't know what a resisted rotor even looks like vs a non resisted one.

the plugs are NOS champion H10, just like in 55.

Hank,

If I recall correctly, the Delco resistor rotor is shaped like the one you pictured, and the non-resistor rotor is of a more slim shape. Look for a small carbon tube on the top of the rotor between the center contact and the distributor cap electrode.

Personally, I prefer the projected electrode type spark plugs in the V-8s. I got a NOS set of Champion N-18Ys for my Clipper. It is the later production cylinder head and has the long reach spark plugs. You must have the early version.

We are getting ready for the Vet's Day Car Show in nearby Bastrop on Saturday. No Packards this year, I am taking the Roadster. The whole of the downtown area is closed off for vehicle display. It is always a good show. Then, the next week we are having a house full of folks here for the F1 GP. The week after that is Thanksgiving. November is going to be over in a flash!

(o[]o)

my heads are 1/55, but we are also talking about a junior that wants to be a senior...thats the constellation. the carribean of the clippers if you will.

it has the delco electronics as well...yours is autolite. therefore the difference in spark plugs.

H10 was always stock on my car no matter what, from what i can tell.

the rotor doesn't look like it has a resistor on it to me. i know what you are talking about as i have seen that tube in pictures of NOS Delco rotors, this new one doesn't have that.


I don't like these 13 dollar plug wires. the 90 degree boot will NOT work for me. it allows the wire to touch the valve cover and that is a no bueno for me.

so back to making my own. oh well it was worth trying and it was cheap and i can use them as a back up for on the road.

i can't tell a single bit of difference between the new ones and the Packard 440 wire after stripping back some wire. so i'm just going to use the Packard wire and see what happens. if it runs okay...then great...if not...i'll change.

Hank

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Hank. Amazed from afar. Always enjoy your posts, pics and narrative details.

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Hank, I am with KevinAZ on your work and postings. We love being on this journey with you, if only from afar.

The rotor is easy enough to check with an ohm meter. It looks to have the resistor potted into the rotor.

The difference in spark plugs between your engine and mine is because of the two types of cylinder heads. Yours, the early version with machined combustion chambers has the shorter length spark plug reach. My engine is the later version with cast chambers and longer reach plugs. The machined chambered heads, like yours, would be my choice.

There are vendors who can sell you the correct type terminals (maybe Brillman?). I agree, the Packard 440 cables are a good choice.

Take care and keep keeping us posted.

(o[]o)