Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hi Riki, Thanks again, I was thinking of putting the machine screws through from inside so the nyloc nuts would be outside but double nuts locked up and Loctite would probably be a better option. The seal supplied with the gaskets doesn't look anything like the rope type seal I have or Hank's modern replacement so I am at a loss as to what it's for or how it would be retained if it is a crankshaft seal..? I need the gaskets anyway so nothing lost...
Cheers, Dave.

After having lived with oil leaks from the front end of my engine for years, I decided to have the gaskets replaced on my 352 Packard V-8 in my 1956 Studebaker Golden Hawk. The cast alloy timing chain cover was leaking particularly badly. It had a butchered-up rope seal in it, the cover wasn't flat (by 0.08" in spots) and the two front oil pan bolts were stripped out of the cover and weren't even holding. I got another good used cover from Brent Hagen (ghawk352@effectnet.com) that I had fitted with a new modern neoprene seal. New gaskets and the neoprene seal can be obtained from Bob Marx (bob@marxparts.com).

I also had the oil pan gaskets and transmission pan gasket replaced at the same time. To replace the gaskets, the radiator, water pump, vibration dampener, steering linkage, oil pan, exhaust pipe, starter, lower flywheel housing and timing chain housing were removed from the car. The old rope seal internal retainer ring in the timing cover was originally held in by a previous owner with wood screws! It's supposed to be pressed-in fit over the rope seal. The new neoprene seal doesn't leak a drop now. Cork seals were used for the front and rear oil pan seals.

Even the fuel pump was leaking oil from the pivot rod in the housing so I replaced the pump too.

It was an expensive job but well worth it. Now if I could resolve the fluid drips from the Ultramatic! The car often sits for weeks without my driving it and it slowly drips transmission fluid over time. I've been told this is normal for these older transmissions that don't get used very much, and even older GM Hydramatics do it.

Bill L.

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You can buy a nice big pan from McMaster-Carr and then measure the amount of leakage. I used to be able to get those pans oil tight, and the shifter and kickdown oil tight as well so that only a drop or two per month would fall. Use Mopar ATF RTV for the gaskets and let sit 24 hours to cure. If using modern imitation cork gaskets the original torque spec it too high and need only be 12-15 ftlbs or until the gasket is squeezed by the pan.

my TU leaks from two or three front bolts as well. even used RTV on them...still they drip very very slowly.

my rear cork on my oil pan leaks as well.

all new gaskets for me as well.

i think i need to just tighten the oil pan, but as for the trans...unless its just pouring out i'm not worried about it yet..car has way more work to do anyways.