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Interesting bracket. Not sure why someone thought it was necessary to raise the cable. Hard to tell if the original location was the same bolt or the rocker cover bolt. If rocker cover, maybe someone wanted someplace with a larger bolt and cable wouldn't reach or decided the water manifold bolt under the bracket wasn't suitable either.

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Maybe someone had a short ground strap, but extra steel strap?

Stewart,

Your engine on close inspection is interesting. Does the base of your oil fill tube have somekind of collar or gasket? Maybe just an illusion too with the flash of the camera.

Need a little advice.
I am in the process of getting the engine ready for removal
and tonight I spent time underneath trying to pull the drive shaft.

The rear end came out with no problem. I removed the 4 bolts from the front universal joint flange as the service manual described but its not dropping as I expected. Each time I pull it moves a couple inches and then slams into something.

Do I just keep pulling until it gives or did I miss something.
The service manual made this sound rather simple.


Thanks.

It should just pull out. It could be rusted a little. Spray a little PB Blaster and tap rearward on the portion of the shaft after the rubber boot. It should drop out.

The plate itself separates from the sort of cup or flange it sits in once the bolts are removed. That shouldn't take more than a quarter inch or so to slide back and be free. Where is the two inches coming from -- motion inside the bellows? Make sure the rim around the flange hasn't been damaged or pinched in some way that it's binding the part that removes.

The movement feels like its coming from inside boot. Feels likes it metal on metal.

I thought it would just drop away myself. It may be the rust holding. Will try the PB blaster tomorrow night.

Darn spiders under there kept biting me

stewart.

if the trans is in park, monster channes, you should be able to work it off,

agree, the cover plate might be rusted to flange..

put channe on flat part, where balls travel.. rock it..

Just checking in, I'm trying to post at least once a week.

I was able to get the drive shaft off easily enough the next night. I must have weakened by all the spider bits that first night. It's just the only logical explanation I can think of.

I am still striping parts off the engine getting it ready to remove in a few weeks. Removing the transmission cooling lines are the worse. As a matter of fact all the brass fittings are tough to get out. The bolts have been easy compared to those. I destroyed the line coming off the bottom of the oil filter.

The water pump, oil filter and power steering pump are laying on my shop floor at the moment. Next I'll yank the manifold and whatever else gets in my way.

I'm not spending a lot of time on the parts being removed right now. I'll have all winter to take a look at them. My priorities are getting the frame stripped of everything and when money runs low I'll keep busy cleaning and rebuilding the parts that need it.

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bottom oil filter line.....use a large socket to make the loopy loop in the line. that is what I did and it worked a charm. assuming it is destroyed from what you said and you will need to make a new one.