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Thank you Howard - I guess I will attempt to remove the panel later. Looks like the round molding comes off with the panel ? Do you know which switch position is ON - ( up or down ) ?

As to the round molding, if you mean the windlace, that is separate. On the first pillar photo I posted earlier with the center assy you can see those black strips on either side of the pillar. Those are compressed cardboard nailing or tack strips and the windlace is attached to those using a MULTITUDE of small carpet tacks. The panel lays over those on both sides and is separate.

On this 47 type switch, in the first photo the small dot has to show for switch to be ON. I think it may be the same switch on your car. As to orientation, I didn't see a definitive answer in any of the manuals. Don't think it matters although believe most of us in the US are used to having to push or lift the button or toggle up to be on.

You mentioned in your post (#2) that the light won't go out. If you have the same switch, I wouldn't be surprised if the switch has gotten hot and the plastic has melted and switch has shorted.

Not sure if you can see the details closely in the photos but look at the second and third photos. It shows the melting and the contact strip fused to the switch. The 4th photo shows just the normal contact "buttons". The surface is supposed to be flat so the small brass strip can move and make or break contact with both "buttons".

I don't think there is much hope for this switch so am going to get the type more like David shows or maybe a higher rated micro switch. Will see if I can do some adapting so this correct looking outer plastic housing and slide will work with it.

There were some of this same type switch on ebay a few days ago and they may still be there. It is not the first time I've seen this type melted so not going to waste money trying to duplicate the original.

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OK thanks - now I will know what to expect when I pull it loose. I had thought , maybe it was covered with the switch in the ON position - I would try to move it without removing the cover - just to see if the light would go out. Probably not -

This topic has proved interesting and motivating for me to seek some reason in the behaviors of my own 1956 Four Hundred (Esquire) hardtop.

When I got the car, the rear two dome lights did not have bulbs in either socket and I soon found out why. First, if I were to disconnect the car battery, I could put good bulbs into the sockets, and if the car doors stayed closed, once the battery was re-connected, both dome lights would come on, the under-dash courtesy light (above the radio) would stay off, as would the side marker lights, right and left. But when I would try to open a door, the courtesy dash light and the side marker lamps would come on (as expected), but the dome lights would flutter and then the fuse block fuse would blow. Without any bulbs in the dome light sockets, there is no fuse blowing and the other lights work as expected. If it matters, I also have no operating trunk light, either.

My study of the wiring diagram seems to show that there is no slide on/off switch for the hardtops, unlike the sedans. Baring the bare wire theory, I am reluctant to start pulling things apart unless there's a good plan for where to start. I can live with the prospect of a dark back seat for a very long time. But if I'm overlooking something more obvious, I am willing to try for a solution. Any ideas?

The switch under discussion is for sedans bodies only - not used on hardtops.

Given your problem with the dome/reading lamps and the inoperative trunk compartment light, I wonder if the rear cigar lighters work. If you've studied the wiring diagrams in the shop manual, you may have noticed that each of those circiuts has a red feed wire, and they all come together in one splice. Yet, I'm not so sure that's the culprit. Trunk light might even be a completely separate issue.

You see, Packard's approach to courtesy lighting is a bit different than what you may have experienced with other brands and in later model years.

Normally, in sedan bodies, the dome/reading lamp is turned on by a switch in either REAR door hinge pillar or the sliding switch on the center pillar (above the beltline). However, in hardtop bodies, the dome/reading lamp is turned on by a switch in either FRONT door hinge pillar but ALSO by (by turning) the headlamp switch. Those switches also turn on the instrument panel map/courtesy lamp. The courtesy lamps have a constant hot-feed; the switches complete the path to ground.

So, I'd start with checking the position/operation of the headlamp switch. Then, try disconnecting the tan wire that runs from the headlamp switch back to another splice with the dome/reading lamps, and perhaps re-installing the bulbs. Notice that a separate tan wire from the same point on the headlamp switch and leads to a splice with the circuits for the front door jamb switches and the instrument panel light.

Please report back, here, with your findings.

Of course, I'm assuming that a correctly rated fuse is installed for these circuits.

I have had that problem too and I agree with BH on this. Check your pillar switches-wiring for a short. It should be easy if you have two switches per door. Just push one in with your finger and see if the outside-dash lights go out. It must be the other one if they do. Then gently pull it out or take off the kickpanel(s) to check the wiring.

Brian posted essentially the same thing as this long winded explanation since I let the forum time out on me before it was posted. In addition to his cigar lighter questions, I have a couple of things worth checking so will go ahead and post my response.

The interior lights and the trunk light are all powered off the same fuse but via different paths. Since the fuse only blows when a bulb is inserted, chances are that portion and loom is OK. Because the fuse only blows when bulbs are inserted, something to check would be the sockets themselves. Inserting a bulb pushes the contact plate rearward against a spring & moves the wires. If the insulation has shrunk back or deteriorated, the act of inserting a bulb could move the contact plate enough that a wire could touch against the shell & short. A non functioning trunk light could well be the built in tilt switch -- it easily corrodes and is a frequent source of no trunk light.

As far as function, turning the headlight switch knob provides a ground to the rear lights and also one to the front center courtesy light. It should illuminate with the rear. That portion of the headlight switch is also in parallel with the 2 door switches so that either door would also light the front and rear interior lights. All that is done via a short aux wire harness off the headlight switch.

The 55 and early 56 had two door switches for two circuits. Later 56 cars use a single double contact door switch to provide two separate grounding circuits. One portion for the interior lights and the other portion and contact for the side markers. That would be a place to look. Make sure someone has not substituted a single contact switch and tied the circuits together.

I don't know if anything was done when making an Esquire other than some molding and trim changes. If there were electrical changes then any number of possibilities might occur.

Thanks for your advice. I hadn't thought of checking the rear ashtray lighters or any of the other lighters since we're a family of non-smokers. Better yet, I will review the headlight switch instructions contained in (the PI version) of the on-line owner's manual for 1956, to see if I'm doing things right.

But all of this will have to wait for the Arctic Vortex to go away. Last night Atlanta had its lowest temperatures in almost a century and two degrees short of an all time low. In a cold garage, it may be best to leave sleeping Packards to their sleep. By the weekend we may be back with weather approaching the seventies (F) and then being upside down, under the dash, will be more tolerable for an old guy.

You've given me some helpful advice and at least two places to start. Seeing the pictures of others re-crafting their own wiring harnesses is a source of amazement and admiration. Thank you.

Dave

HH - After looking at several cars at the Texas Packard Meet,and mine, I think the dome light switch on a 48 in on the driver's side pillar - same as your 47. Mine does feel like it is missing.

If you feel the hole but not the switch, the question is whether the wire is in the pillar just hanging and shorting against the metal. Since you said your light won't go out, that is a good possibility.

I had planned to get a different switch but went against my judgement and bought the original looking plastic switch after all. The same fellow I got mine from was selling some more on ebay just a few days ago so he must have a supply of new ones.