Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

i see. You keep the clip and put the set screw on the other flat. I thought you remove the clip and put set screw on its side. May work well.
try this link. 1/2 waydown the page .pg 3

performancenowdirect.com/servlet/the-Packard-1955--dsh--1956/s/51/Categories email or pm me as it seems link wont copy and paste . Admin must ok?

Link works now but without a photo on their end hard to tell what they have to offer. Not positive but I think the site may be affiliated with Kanter Auto. I take it he has none of the originals to offer.

The correct tool for these handles is made from a thick gauge sheet metal and has a square cut into the end and you can remove the handles with it by pushing the tool behind the handle from the opposite side of the clip. When the tool engages both sides of the clip, firm pressure on the clip pushes its tang out of the grove on the shaft and you can wiggle the handle off. Its tricky but can be done. Its tough to visualize. Pix should be posted. you must push the tool hard enough to overcome the spring steel pressure

I ordered 1. Ill let you know. I can still use 1 rt frt outer handle clip and several power window switch clips good used.

26.10 per. if you need 1 its one thing. if you have crank windows and you broke em all. 20X 8=ouch. same for the outer. 4 X 90 = ouch ouch

Nice set screw fix Howard.

i think there is a post, where someone drilled and tapped into the crank,

I had that very problem for quite awhile. I managed to get it stay by wedging a small piece of felt in the gap between the post and the inside of the handle. The problem is actually two-fold: the post has worn down during so many years of use and the small clip that is supposed to brace the handle to the post has become ineffective as a result. Short of finding a new old-stock door post and handle in mint condition, you will simply have to improvise.

A previous owner of my car tried the set screw fix. It proved to be only moderately effective, but the end result is not particularly attractive. The handle and post were never designed to accommodate a set screw. The inside wall of the handle is also too thin to properly hold a threaded screw and unless the post is drilled in precisely the correct position, the result will not be good. I thought about trying this method again, but decided that the simplest solution is generally the best.

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This screw is hidden and under the handle lever so not seen but I am concerned about the thinness of the threaded area. No idea if the other owner did it the same way but with your comments, am becoming convinced that the area needs to be reinforced so will see what some JBWeld would do. Not planning to drill the shaft unless it proves necessary and even then it would just be a slight depression. In conjunction with the clip, handle seems to be holding as is but it is early still.

I think you may create a better ,longer lasting solution if you do drill a moderate dimple drill hole in the shaft. My thinking is you want the corners of the shaft acting on the inner sides of the handle while turning the handle to open the door. You dont want the set screw taking all that force as it will surely break out. If you dimple the shaft and screw the set screw in with a drop of the non permanent lock tight and you engage the dimple with the set screw tip but do not tighten it on the shaft, it will keep the handle from coming off but allow 4 sides to take the turning force. just my 2 cents. 3 colors of locktight as i recall. light, semi perm and perm. wht,blue and red as i recall. I think that is how the clip is supposed to work cause if you look at the shaft, the groove is cut around the shaft. On the corners and the flats so as to stay engaged in the detent even when the handle is turned and the play is taken up. Not sure ive explained it correctly but the fact that these handles are so difficult to remove before these clips are damaged confirms the point