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Let the ride decide: I have obviously missed some blogs (can't read them all) discussing the subject.

TroyT: I saw that item when you first posted yet, Like Henry, I've no idea what it is.

Ross: Just to make sure I understand you correctly. I can use one of the numerous known ways of securing the front end bars but I do not have to secure the rear bars at all? I will be able to remove the axel and everything attached to it with no issues due to the T/L.

Thank You Everyone.

Yes.

It is called a Bolt Hook. I got mine at Menards Model Number: N130-617 | Menards? SKU: 2253114 $5.49. I also got a connecting nut and 36" 5/8 threaded rod to make the length longer.

I welded and extension tube on the stud and put a upright to form a U shape to hold the Arm. You can do it without the U extension but it tends to slip with the pressure. the U extension made it safe to have positive control on the tension both take up and let out.

When I wind them back up, I will use the female version, similar to an eye bolt, along with a shackle to allow for the pivoting as the arm moves. I should have made it with that the first time, but it worked. the male would be fine for front end work to remove the suspension for work.

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Cleaning day for the frame.

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Go to a janitorial supply store or even Sam's club and buy some industrial deep fat fryer cleaner that comes in hand spray bottles. Spray that over the remaining grease and let it work in. Pressure wash again and you will be pleased with the results.

I took Ross's advice and got the deep fryer cleaner from Sam's. It looks much better now after the second powers washing (first 3 images below).

I am getting the frame ready for sand or soda blasting. Planning to remove the TL compensator before that but not removing anything else unless anyone here has other advice.

Went back and browed through Henry's blog (way back to 11/2008) when he was removed the TL compensator. I ordered the amazon.com/dp/B002FCP4DO/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item" rel="noopener external" title="">15/16 drag link tool, which was posted in post #174 of Henry's blog, to disconnect the ball joint from the links.

There is something else that caught my attention from Henry's blog. In post 173 & 174 he mentions that
"the manual is backwards on how to take the tension off the small torsion bars so you can take the torsion motor out of the frame there is no weight on the frame, so it is opposite. the shop manual was written for a car in the shop that has the body/engine etc...all on top of it. so instead of 1/2" towards the center of the car, it now becomes 1/2" off vertical towards the outside of the car".

Seeing that no one commented or corrected him on his finding back then I am going to take it as fact and act upon it.

Mine are currently ? toward the center (last 2 images below) so I need to move them the other way before disconnecting. I am wondering if the bucket on the front of my Kubota tractor would force the frame downwards enough to move them outwards. Am I thinking correctly folks?

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Soda did not work well on my frame, I went to an industrial blaster and it turned out beautiful, looked brand new.

There is something else that caught my attention from Henry's blog. In post 173 & 174 he mentions that
"the manual is backwards on how to take the tension off the small torsion bars so you can take the torsion motor out of the frame there is no weight on the frame, so it is opposite. the shop manual was written for a car in the shop that has the body/engine etc...all on top of it. so instead of 1/2" towards the center of the car, it now becomes 1/2" off vertical towards the outside of the car".


IIRC, on seniors with heavier bars and body off, the link may want to go farther than Hank mentions and will try to tuck into the frame to the point the drag link socket and ratchet may not fit onto the end of the bar. You might need to be prepared for that contingency. Maybe yours will co-ooperate but I had to use a block of wood to prevent the bar from moving into the frame. That provided wrench room and held the bars so I could relieve tension enough to remove the plugs. The plugs just fought too much with pressure on them. Hopefully yours will not have excessive staking of the plugs to the transverse bar either.

Once the plugs are out you can remove the wood by manually turning the mechanism to re-tension the link slightly so wood falls out and just rely on the hole in the bar to keep the ball captured. Once wood is out you can turn the mechanism so tension is completely off and bars can be removed.

Thanks HH,
I think I understand what you are saying will take a couple more pictures tonight with a wood block in place to confirm before I do anything.

TroyT, I was wondering about that besides I can get it sand (I think its coal slag) blasted locally by but the nearest soda blasting is in Louisville almost 50 miles away.
Also, I picked up a couple of those hinge bolts and other items that you posted at TSC this weekend. Will post how it goes when I get to the point.

HH

Is this what you were talking about with the placement of the wood blocks?

I hope the frame does not need to much force from my tractor bucket on the rear end. With no weight on the front end it probably won't take much to raise it off the ground.

I guess I could use my truck to hold it down like others have done.

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