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I couldn't find any good safe places to bolt up the leveler, so I'm going with slings. One under and around the front mount yoke and one choking around the trans mount all to a big clevis. Should put lift point close to motor center. Front is off, so should be able to raise up over the cross member, push car out, and drop on my new "D. Grubbs wooden motor toter". Tues is golf, so won't do til about Wed/Th. Let me know if this sounds squirrely, what ot watch, or you have a better approach. Tks.

I used slings in about the same locations on mine -- under the oil pan in front and behind it wedged between pan and bellhousing in rear. IIRC, with trans and R9 OD installed center was about even with #7.

Don't know if your engine has the front aux side stabilizers like the 356 uses but since the hook for cherry picker was a stretch I placed a bolt in those side holes as a safety to keep the sling from wanting to slide back on the oil pan. Had no issues at all and much easier than figuring an attachment for the chain and brackets. I also had one of those screw type levelers attached but didn't really need it. It did come in handy to tilt the engine as trans slid in past the steering and then level off though.

Why not just slide under the car and pull the trans??? We're not working on corvairs.

What does Service Manual say about pulling the engine??

It's out.
What? Read the directions? U got me! I read that section last year. I'll reread now and see what I did wrong.
I'd recommend:
Sling front and choke bell housing, not at the trans mount.(it wants to pivot not lift in back)
Center pull just before #6 cylinder (it took a while adjusting straps for COG)
pull #8 plug
remove the static clutch linkage so the clutch paddle clears
Take the upper trans mount off, I didn't, and it complicated life(lost ~hour).
Make sure your motor toter clears over and fits inside your lift, I had to rework mine. Out smarted myself trying to add stability too wide.
ps: easier to store with trans on it. less work to dismantle.

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Looking good, Lots of Iron to lug.

Hey Fish'n Jim - that rig looks familiar! Glad to see it worked ok for you. I've pulled my 288 and transmission from my 51 and 50 parts car by bolting "L" brackets on the head bolts at the front and rear of the engines. I guess it worked ok, the 51 engine is still running fine. The 50 engine is frozen and is there for parts, resting on the dolly under the bench.

in case anyone makes a stand; the critical dimensions are inside the parallel front 36" x 6" high rails is no more than 11".
The overall inside length needs to be 64", if the tranny is on.
I'm devising some sort of carrier for the drive shaft, aka propellor shaft. Haven't decided that.
After cleaning up, the strap that choked the front mount was cut, so I'd advise to use the front mount and put the loops through, one on each side, not choke under.
The manual never covers the complete removal, but says to use a strap or bolt across two head bolts, like Dave described to raise the front to access the crank. There wasn't enough thread length to put leveler under. There's about two threads showing on my head bolts. Plus unknown condition of the studs. What ever you use has to hold ~ ton live load. May consider to remove end studs, put in new longer grade 8 bolts. That would add considerable time for a one time pull.