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or i can just do what i did with the truck and put the weight of my truck down on it so i can change it while it is easy to get to. i wonder who would have that bushing part or what would make a decent replacement?? any thoughts on that??

the worm gear will pop out the end from time to time, so i think that is the problem. i actually pulled the gear out of the end of the opening. it went right back in no problems. it doesn't always come out, just when i get it just right. so i am pretty sure that may be what is happening when the electric motor is bouncing back and forth. i need to take a look at the crash sheet and make sure i have all the parts in there correct too.

i know from another post a good lube to put in the motor itself, but any thoughts on how to re-lube it? do you have to take the whole top off i guess??

sorry for all the silly questions, but never been there done that just yet.....;0) still learning.....

thanks for all the help.

one other question, in the 55 brochure...it seems there is a pic of the motor and trans from the side. the valve covers say clipper, so it must be a clipper motor...

question is....the engine and trans is red......can i make mine red and have it be correct....it is that way in the brochure??? so it must be okay??

You'll want the weight on the rear to work on that bar but that would be one way to do it. Just get the main bar centered in the hole as per the service manual, then you can take the twist out of small bar to the specified place and should be easy to pull that bearing off. As to the seal, the part # is 445890 so you might call up some of the vendors and see if they have it.

The worm gear should pull out from the motor side, but I'd be concerned about the bearing Eric mentioned and also, there is a snap ring that holds it in position. 55 cars had a service bulletin (55 T-12) about the snap ring coming loose and allowing bearing to move out of position. Either could be causing the problem. As to the lube, you can do it on the car without taking anything apart.

As to the paint, you can paint anything you like but correct would be blue.

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guess the red is the lower models only. too bad. i kinda like the red better, but i will go with the blue.

as far as the motor, i am way too visual.....i will take some pics of the motor and show you what i am talking about with the gear comming out.

also i completely do not understand the whole center the long bar and then you can something something to the small bar.....remember you are talking to a 27 year old that has only messed with coil over suspension. the only thing i have ever owned that had torsion bars was 2 ford rangers and i never messed with it.

i plan to start at the front of the chassis and work my way back, so by the middle i will be getting to the torsion stuff.

may i tell you there are so many things on these cars to think about, makes ones head hurt that has never know of it before, so thanks for trying and sticking in there with me when i get confused a bit. ;0)

i will re-read and try to study very hard what you put in your post, maybe it will finally click in my head. sometimes i really hate being visually inclined, it sux.

also where would one get the screw in lubricator adaptor....LOL!

later,

Hank

okay....so is the clip on the electric motor itself?? and is that freeze plug thing actually that inspection grease cover on the end of the electric motor??

i was thinking the clip was on the actual worm gear itself. that round thing at the end of the worm gear in the exploded view.

and as far as centering the bar in the hole, do you mean radius wise the bar should be at center radius in the hole that it passes through??? i am not really sure about that one.

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The inner parts of worm are behind the freeze plug thing. It will probably be damaged when removing unless the worm gear is actually removed and you can put a drift through from that side and push it out. I don't remember the little clip that supposedly keeps the bearing on the shaft. That may be the culpret instead of the big one that holds the bearing into housing. Interesting, that. Now I'm trying to remember if the actual worm comes out or just the sleeve that has slots on one end for armature. If your entire worm comes out, it could well be missing the small clip but don't think it explains the problem. That still sounds like the bearing moving.

By centering the bar in the hole, it ensures that the rear is in the position where the small bars can be put in their neutral position using the factory dimension. When that neutral position is obtained, then there is no load on the short bars and they can be removed or the front bearing can be removed or the compensator can be removed.

Unfortunately, it will be kinda hard to move things to work on or go for parts with your truck planted there.

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the entire worm gear including the part that has the notch comes out as one piece on mine, but i have to get it just right. i could probably get it out and will beable to push the freeze plug out the other side pretty easy.

i plan to get a video camera soon, so i will see about getting some videos up too, that may help quite a bit.

thanks for everything. ;0)

those crash sheet are crazy cool!! perfect the for visual robot in me! thanks Packardinfo!!! ;0)

Hank

maybe if i read the service manual more i would understand this whole thing better. i just read up on some of the suspension section of the manual and i understand way better now.

except for a few place this car needs all the rubber redone on the chassis.

what color should the chassis be....stain or gloss??

thanks,

Hank

got tired of the wire brushes...so i bought this....next i will add the optional soda media converter and a blast cabinet. my compressor should be enough. 2hp 30 gallon.

they even sell the media at northern tool too, by the lb, bucket, or bag. this blaster doesn't use sand, only glass, black diamond, etc... and can be converted to use soda. ;0)

$159, the website says $139, so i talked to the manager and she matched their own online price! AWESOME!

later,

Hank

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Nice idea. Be interested to hear your results. Kev has the blast cabinet and think I remember him saying he might have or had an issue with moisture which is only thing I know about them--the air supply has to be absolutely dry and there has to be lots of it--so will hope your 2hp compressor can keep up. My Sears 2 hp can run an air tool at 4-5cfm for a bit, but then have to stop and let tank fill again.

Curious about the soda converter you mentioned. Didn't find it to look at, but admit my search tolerance is limited. The unit they recommend for soda is a few hundred $ more, so what's the major difference the converter takes care of?