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stewart,

I was able to successfully and safely remove the A arm, by removing those two bolts while the main bars still had tension.

I first made sure that the T/L was revealed of tension and removed the short bars from the compensator.

With the front Arm in the jacking screw, I removed the front pins and left the arm suspended as you have.

I then removed the two bolts on the top "A" arm and removed it from the frame leaving only the Bottom "A" arm attached.

Those two screw hold both the lower "A" arm, AND the T/L load arm pivot bracket.

Those were the last two screws I removed, the pivot bracket on the front arm will rise or gap about 1/4" from the frame, it will hold securely on the back fasteners. I promptly removed the lower suspension and replaced the bolts and re-tightened them for T/L integrity.

I had no qualms in doing it, but again, I look at it, think twice and then do it. I realize it is not the proper way, but it worked without damaging anything.

I plan on doing the reverse project and rewind the T/L from the front using my jack screw and process.

Do be careful, move slowly and keep clear just in case of a snap, there is a lot of tension there.

Packard only mentions using the load arm hold tool in servicing the TL front suspension. Since they have instructions on removing the lower A arm to replace bushings and no other caution other than having the car high enough if conventional springs, it would appear those two bolts can be removed. The bracket is long and has the reinforcing rib running full length so it looks like if the other two bolts on the pivot pin side are not touched all should be OK with the bar.

You guys were dead on.
I removed the two bolts this morning to remove the lower A arm and the T/L load arm pivot bracket raised up about 1/4 inch. After the A arm fell to the shop floor I immediately put the two bolts back in place. Will leave them there until I resemble. Thanks again.

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Glad to hear it worked.

Last weekend I drug the frame outside with the aid of my tractor and sand blasted off those remaining stubborn grease spots. I have been trying to get it painted ever since but something keeps coming up and can't get time to complete it. I have to put the second coat on while the first is still tacky so I can only do a section or two at a time. I am about 2/3 done and racing the colder weather coming in this week.

The rubber grommets in the first two images are not going to come out easily. I may have to burn them out unless someone has another suggestion.

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Stewart,

Looking good. I may have to speed up, you are catching up to me.

On the rubber grommets, I used heat and the rubber and inner sleeve will drop out. the Outer steel sleeve is a bear. I used a cut off wheel and made several cuts down to the arm, Heat again and then alot of air hammer and chisel. Once it breaks free it will go but it is very slow. Took me about 15 min per bushing. On the lower arm, heat and air hammer, then burn out the rear rubber so the new bushing will go in.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Forgot to ask about those metal sleeves.

Don't worry about me catching you. This is the easy part. I may have more time lately to work on it but now that I have to start spending money toward re-assembly the whole process will slow down.

Got a question.
Perhaps I am being over cautious but I am getting ready to remove the rear end and anything close to the T/L gives me pause.

Can I remove the axle and support arms as a single unit? If so how do I safely remove rear T/L arms out of the stir-ups on the underside of the support arms? Even though I have the front T/L arms supported there is still some tension on the rear bars right?

Thanks

Yes, tension still on the rear, however, If you DO NOT remove the pivot Bolt, the rear unlike the front will only travel a short distance as long as you DO NOT remove the pivot bolt.

You will need to jack up the rear arms, swing them out of the saddle and let them down till they hard stop. The rear will not cut loose like the front will.

Rear end and arms can then come out as a unit. I chose to take them out separate.

Great job on the chassis. May I ask what type of finish you used.

Thanks Fred D