Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

is the seal for door,,roof, trim,, the same stuff that is used to set the glass..in the channel.

those screws that hold, trim, were a sob,,, used cold chisel ,, dremel ,, they would dull drill bits,,

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Not sure what youare asking here. Post is under a headliner title? Are you inquiring about the ares at the drip rail where the 3 pieces of metal join?

I don't believe it is the same. IIRC, that upper door piece is wide, maybe L shaped stainless with a rolled over bottom edge. The inside chrome edge of window pushes against the L and some fuzz. I believe the fuzz is glued to the side of the L with bottom edge set into the rolled over portion so the window can't catch the edge of fuzz and pull it off.

If the construction is as I think, possibly you could use a Dremel with a small diameter cutoff wheel to remove the old fuzz and open a slot at the rear of the rolled edge at the same time. Restoration Specialties has a normal height but very thin with almost non existent beading belt molding where one edge might be able to be inserted in the slot and the body of the belt molding reglued to the Packard piece.. Whether you can open the rolled portion to extract the old fuzz and insert new without visible dings or damage is the question.

Can not see by your pic. Are you asking about what HH56 is referring to or do you mean to ask what holds the roof "drip rail" cover chrome trim on and the seam sealer in the channel?

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Good point. I probably assumed again. If you mean the black rubber like pad between roof panel and the stainless then yes, the rubber glass channel material will work. It comes in a couple of thicknesses but is thin and doesn't compress much. Be sure to clean off all the old so there is a relatively smooth surface to seal against. If you use that material I would use the all rubber and not the cork or fabric reinforced.

If you are not asking about that or the removed weatherstrip piece and flapper not shown in your photo then more details of what you are referring to would be appreciated.

thanks,

i should of looked up pt no.

here is group no. 30.3445,

wonder if its around, they used 2 widths a wide and smaller piece, under spring loaded flap.


i really feel like cutting the top off,,,,,the rust,, if i did i would have someone help make a fiberglass mold of top,,

and have a pop top like the t-bird. unless i found a cont. top parts for cheap.....

the glass setting rubber, it said .070,, for thickness.


thanks............another week before i start putting in headliner, going to install, then let it set before i glue it in.

Restoration has 1/16 or 3/32 all rubber glass setting tape. Either would probably work as would the .070. Don't think there is anything that precision with the part title "spacer" but more a weather and antisqueak application. Restorations width appears to be 1 1/2 so maybe you will have to buy enough and cut to size whatever you wind up needing.

McMaster has 1/16 rubber strips in various widths but for a solid rubber I think the glass tape is cheaper.

I had a friend cut off the top of a Chevy because it was rusted and he thought he could make a roadster -- only he didn't do any of the needed extra frame bracing very well or maybe put in in the wrong places. Talk about a mess. I think he finally just stripped the good parts and junked the rest.

thanks,,howard,


lot of talk about the bracing ,, wonder how ross is doing with the clipper.

i should be able to get that stuff at a auto glass place, if they want a lot, i will go else where.

i probably, could use rubber ized,,, gasket material , i will also use silicone window caulk to seal things up.

ever use the rust paint?,, hirsch has. j-b weld has a high temp. epoxy, would like something i could brush and build with.

thanks,,h,h,,,55 clip/

I've used the Hirsch Miracle paint. Per Hirsch writeup, it appears to be a lot like POR 15. Don't remember if it came in colors but the one I used dried to a very very hard gloss black and seems to adhere quite well over the rust -- and anything else you might get it on. Can't say it would give a very thick buildup though as it is fairly thin and can even be sprayed. I used POR 15 gray manifold paint and as I recall that was a bit thicker material than the miracle paint.

ok,

color does not matter, since its going inside roof rail, i have rust thru, have old liner out, now i have to get the brown insulation off,, already things are messing,, rust scale,

that stuff good to use on inside roof metal?,,,it gets hot up there,,

thanks hh