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Day-um, Troy! That thumb hurts all the way to the Left Coast!
I hope it heals quickly!

Just a quick note of clarity. The pictures of the rusted input shaft on the 56J above was to show the power of Evaporust cleaning to remove the rust on steel parts as many have ask if it works. This shaft is not usable as is, too much damage to the wear surfaces and we Never "wire brush" any parts.

Side note, stitches come out Wednesday and we will see if I can get back at it.

Sorry about my mistake, the evaporust certainly seems to work as well as a wire brush. I did not intend to infer that you would use the shaft as is, but it is pretty rare to see a pic of a shaft on info.com. Hope the stitches come out ok. PT

no worries, I should have told the entire story.

While doing a 56J the customer had an extra one he gave me if I could use any parts.
This was the worst Trany I have seen in an Ultramatic. The bell housing was taken off and it was stored outside. Upon teardown, an ear from the front band had broken off and wedged between the housing and the clutch pack drum and cut a 1/4" x .080 groove in the drum. The heat was so intense, it transferred into the Planetary assembly and spin welded the Planetary ring drum to the rear pump.
Needless to say, all I got was a good tail piece and a few internals.

you hit the nail on the head however, worn hard parts and tolorances on these old girls need to be addressed rather than just slap a new kit it and expect it to perform.

Peter, Troy,

How do you make a old shaft useable again?

A little blue pill.


(Hit that one over the fence )

How do you make a old shaft useable again?

Assuming that the only problem area is the section that rides in the bushing, you hard-chrome or otherwise metalize to an oversize condition and then have it reground back to OEM specifications. Pretty commonplace machine shop job.

64, it's still going!
youtu.be/td389xjjENA

OD, thanks. I have never looked, are the OEM specifications in the parts, or shop manual?

Ride, yes, for shafts, I have them hard chromed which fills in the imperfections and adds to the diameter and then center-less ground back to spec.

Parking Pawls and other wearable parts I use a stelite powder to weld back up and then machine back to spec.

As Owen D stated these are common processes at most machine shops.

First day back in the shop since the stitches came out, Didn't help I hit that thumb with a hammer.

I got a couple torsion gear box and motors to reman, one was ate up pretty good on the input ring and had a crack in the upper body.

Nothing a little weld job couldn't fix. Ring came out perfect, got a little porosity on the body but it is good to go.

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