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I am not following how you could move the shaft even reworking the bushing boss. You have the link to manual valve fastened onto it as well as the roller mechanism for the park pawl.

REmove set screw for manual valve link. Would that not allow the shaft to slide THRU the link and the parrk pawl collar?????

So the oil pan would have to be removed to remove the set screw in the manual valve link but isn't removing the oil pan alot easier than removing tail shaft housing?????

Let me put it another way:
If the manual control SHAFT can be removed from the trans by sliding OUT of those items u mentioned then it ought to slide just an inch further into the trans (sliding THRU) the items u mentioned. It only needs to slide maybe 1 inch at the max. Probably 3/8" would be enuf.

But the right side cast-in pillow blocck support for the shaft is a blind hole. It will not allow the shaft to slide more than maybe 1/8 inch at the max.

OPEN up the blind hole and that will allow the shaft to slide far enuf tothe right to allow the PB unit to be removed.

It might be possible by removing the pan-- and that might be beneficial in checking for a loose setscrew or that rivet in the manual link that can break. It would be messy and still a project though. Not sure if tail shaft or pan is the bigger job but the cross member wouldn't have to come off needing some extra support so maybe a benefit. Another concern might be the end of the shaft where the actuator setscrew sits. If the shaft were gouged by the screw or dirt had gotten in the area it would be hard to make sure the seal wasn't damaged when the shaft moved over it. Speaking of seals, what about the other side. If the case doesn't go thru or you have to do something to the bushing for the shaft to slide then there might be an issue there. If fluid gets trapped in the blind space and the shaft is knocked in to move over pressure might be too much for the case to hold.

I much rather, figure out how to modify the frame, so you don't have to remove anything from trans,

Because of some advice I received from O_D I was able to remove the PB unit from trans WITHOUT removing tailshaft.
Disconnected drive shaft at trans.
I removed rear trans mount while supporting trans via scissor jack.
Loosened the PB set screw.
Jacked the trans as far to the pass. side as the tail shaft would allow.
Slid the PB unit off as far as the frame would allow.
Tilted the top of the PB unit toward the trans allowing it to clear the shaft.
Pushed the PB unit UP until it completely cleared the shaft.
Moved PB unit toward the front of car until it cleared the shaft.
Lowered PB unit down and away from trans.
Clearances were very close but it can be done.

As Randy says, easy enough to remove the PB actuator from the trans w/o removing the tailshaft. I do it a little different than Randy describes but the general technique is well-know by those who service these transmissions.

Put trans in "R" and kill the battery.
Remove the plate and set screw from the actuator/shaft.
Loosen bolts on front engine mounts just a little.
Drop the front of the driveshaft.
Remove rear trans mount and support the tailshaft.
Use a small scissor jack to push the engine/trans to the right.
Remove the PB actuator motor attachment strap & then the entire assembly. Reasonably quick and easy.

Thanks Dave for covering details I skipped (read forgot) like putting unit in "R" first.

that's what I thought had to be done, the frt engine mounts, but I didn't want to deal with that,

cause I tried to move trans, and it didn't want to go, and also the rear flange with that off it could go higher, and over more,

I was also thinking, access from inside, 1960 Studebaker had an access panel to get to top trans bolts, but that's not the problem,,

thanks for replies,, glad I didn't have to remove motor, I think my problem was , dirty sector, and pinched wires pb side,

where can you get that type of wire, everything now days use plastic insulation ,,,and it's stiff,

that's what I thought had to be done, the frt engine mounts, but I didn't want to deal with that,

It's only loosening 4 bolts about 1 turn each, all easily accessible. No weight transfer occurs.

dave,

getting picky in my upper age, lol,,

I believe I did that back in the 70s, but I dropped the trans down, I took the bolts out,

if I have to, I know now, I can get it off,