Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

That wiper motor appears to be an older one so doesn't have provisions for the arc change or the co-ordinator. The washer with the red cap denoting 12v version is correct for 55-6 but you will need to block off the small hose port that would have gone to the coordinator to make it work. If typical, the pump portion is probably dry and in need of rebuilding so it may not work anyway.

There is something going on with the window relay. Do you have power windows and if so are they working and only when key is on? The relay that would disable them when key is off looks to be disconnected. There is what appears to be a different type circuit breaker underneath the relay that is going somewhere.

Before you do much with the TL verify the limit switch is present and in the circuit-- either the 55 mechanical version on the bracket or perhaps with 56 solenoids you have the 56 compensator with the individual limit switches built into the bottom cover. Do not try to operate without a working limit switch. Any electrical problem or miswire that would keep the motor running and no way to stop things at certain points could well result in damage to the compensator. The special 3 terminal brake light switch and circuit also has to be functioning properly for the TL to operate.

From what I can see the choke tubing and dist advance tubing look OK. The choke draws heat from the tube inside crossover passage via the tube that goes to the left side and vacuum advance usually has a port toward the front of carb base. Exact routing varies with carbs. The vacuum from wipers would typically go off the right side of carbs and then to the rear but since this has the change to a two stage fuel pump it will have to go forward to pump and then back to wipers.

Here is what the 55-6 wiper motor looks like.

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Clippers had red engine paint and Carter carbs. A 1955 Patrician should have had an Ivory color engine with a Rochester carb. Even if it is an engine out of a Four Hundred, it ought to be Ivory, not red. And there are other odd and home-grown things going on here in the engine compartment.

HH56: Yes, the power windows work with the key off, as does the power seat, and the TL system with a manual 3-way switch that PO installed.

I have not spent much time looking into the TL system except to replace the brake switch with the 3-prong cross reference from this site.

I think I would like to find a 55-56 wiper motor so I can use the washer feature. I'll put that on my list...

My first efforts are to get the engine runnings smoothly and brakes so that I can drive it around more.

I have lots more questions about the car, but probably off topic from the original post so I'll start some new ones. I'll stick with the existing Carter carb for now; don't see a reason to change it but maybe adjust it best I can and eventually rebuild it (once I figure out what version of WCFB it is) after I
Also need to get Autolite generator working with Delco regulator, replace oil and temp senders (no gauge indication), then dig into this TL thing and see what is what......

thank you.

I suspected the windows would work without the key. It appears the PO just took the window relay and circuit breaker out of the system and connected the hot wire thru another CB directly to the window feed.

If all the gauges except ammeter are not functional look at the instrument voltage regulator or the fuse labeled instrument cluster in the under dash fuse block. The fuses and the holder have been known to oxidize and have poor contact. Verify you have voltage out of the regulator feeding the gauges. Regulator is located at the rear of cluster at the bottom. A larger rectangular box having two screw terminals sitting between two smaller circuit breakers . Voltage out can be hard to measure though. The regulator is actually a switch which rapidly turns the 12v on and off so that the average out is about 5v. With a typical meter it may just look like a bunch of changing numbers. Seeing no voltage means fuse or regulator but if you see a solid 12v that is bad. It would indicate the regulator shorted and gauges may have possibly burned out.

If only one or two gauges are out then most likely a wire or sender. Make sure the wires haven't been broken off at the senders. Oil sender is on top rear of engine block opposite dist and temp is next to firewall on rear of Left head. A possible temp sender replacement is a TS 6464 available from NAPA. I believe -- but am not positive -- it has been verified as a proven temp sender cross reference. I know there is a verified replacement for the gauge style oil sender which can also be obtained at NAPA for less than $20. It is the ECH OP6091. Note that these senders are for the senior cars with gauges, not the Clippers with idiot lights. IIRC, both senders are listed as Ford items.

I know I keep mentioning the TL limit switches but can't stress enough how important they are. If the suspension is functional, make verifying they are in the circuit one of your priorities. When you say PO installed a manual switch that makes me shudder. Hopefully it was done in the factory sanctioned way. Too many have just added a switch to make the system move and bypassed the limit switches when connecting it. Next thing you know the compensator has serious damage because it didn't stop before trying to wrap a transverse bar around the housing.

Thank you. Your wealth of information and willingness to share is extremely helpful to me.

As far as the gauges, the fuel gauge works (put in about 10 gallons and it went about to the halfway point), but no indication at all from either temp or oil. I bought those cross-reference parts you mentioned and just working on how to actually get to the the old parts to be able to remove them. The ammeter functions properly from what I have read of the circumstances. The battery is hooked up with negative ground, and if I turn the key on (without starting) and turn on the headlights, the needle moves right to the 'C' direction. That tells me that nothing was rewired to switch from pos ground to neg ground so that ammeter will run backward. On the list is to swap the wires on the ammeter to make it right. (neither clock nor radio work but I havent started to look into them at all yet).

I appreciate the words of caution regarding TL and this has now risen on my list of near term things to do. the manual switch is a momentary lever switch that will move the rear end up or down while it is held in position. I will search for a limit switch. I do know that when I go from Drive to Reverse the back end moves ( i forget if it goes up or down). I'll dig into this and let you know.

thank you again for all your help to date. I have many more questions so thanks in advance for those too.

-Bob