Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

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I have to laugh. I didn't know where you lived. I just thought everyone had hills. I'm in the San Francisco bay area. No shortage here.


On the timing issue. Sounds like you should maybe ask someone to go thru it with you the first time. If I wasn't so far away I would be glad to show you.

Note: it won't do any good to pull the distributor on a packard. The drive gear stays in the engine. Just determine which direction the rotor turns by cranking the engine with the cap off then loosen the clamp at the base of the distributer and turn the body in the same direction that the rotor turns. Just a little then tighten it down and go out and try it. It should ping less. If you go too far you will notice a loss in power. You can go back and forth until you find the right spot. Good luck

GTO writes,
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I have a similar sounding problem with my 51-300. What I found is happening is, under high acceleration, (That's a laugh isn't it?) the car squats and the rear axel twists which causes the rear universal to hit the bottom of the body. There are marks in the tunnel where the universal contacts the body. I don't know but I suspect that the problem is caused by weak leaf springs. Never had any of my 50 or 60 cars do this before. This is a new one. Now that I think about it none of the cars I've had were 57 years old when I had them. Not even the 31 ford which I bought in 1968. Should have never sold that car.

Note: it won't do any good to pull the distributor on a packard. The drive gear stays in the engine

This was posted in the V8 section so I've been assuming the car in question was a V8, in which case the drive gear comes out with the distributor, unlike the in-line eights.

Sorry I guesed wrong.

Okay, I am glad you two are hammering out an issue we did not speak about earlier, even if it makes me realize I have yet to learn more. I do have a V-8.

I had no concept of "pulling" the distributor. (You will note I often use quotes for both slang and using lingo that I parrot back without complete understanding; in this case the latter.)

All I had in mind was there was a nut or bolt holding the distributor in place. I would first remove the cap and nudge the rotor to see which way it turns. Then, I'd loosen the nut or bolt holding the distributor in place, turn the distributor ever so slightly, and tighten it back up. I emphasize the "slightly" because to me, 1 or 2 degrees for something of that diameter would seem to be a tiny, tiny bit (barely noticeable; maybe 1/8" at most). Does this sound right?

Looking STREIGHT DOWN on the top of the distributor the V8 rotor will turn OPPOSITE clockwise when engine is running.

It is not necessary to remove cap or nudge rotor button to determine rotation. To determine rotor button rotation look at the dashpot on the side of the dist. It pulls the dist AGAINST rotation.

Good to know. Thanks. Tomorrow will be a brighter day. Other than looking to reduce pre-ignition noise, should I look to notice anything else as a sign of progress or screwing up?

Your edit crossed my post. Don't know what dashpot is. Don't even know what "pulling dist against rotation" really means.

Sorry for being so ignorant of this stuff, but it sure is cool to learn it.

Dashpot = vacuum advance. Usually, on single hose dashpots the nipple that hte hose (in this case a metal tube) attaches to will point in the opposite direction of rotor rotation.

I see. I just went and looked, too. Yep, the dashpot is on the driver's side rear of distributor. Therefore, if the rotor were to turn in direction of nipple, it would turn clockwise. Since, it is to turn opposite, it then turns counterclockwise, as you said.

Incidentally, the hose from manifold to dashpot is copper all the way, No taking it off and sucking air, etc. Any other way to test for vacuum?

Nevermind on the last question. I read back a few posts where it stated to place a rubber hose after disconnecting the steel one. I can do that, but I honestly don't want to for concern it will crack or kink. It could be very old and not to pliable.

It's supposed to be a STEEL tube. I would be suspicous that the copper line probably has a split in it somewhere. I replaced mine with a fuel line hose ala SBC and many other engines.