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I hope it does too and yes they are all brass. they were put in by the machine shop. I do have steel ones that came with the engine kit i bought if i really need them.

if it is anything like my BMW....the coolant will eventually harden up and form its own seal. the BMW coolant is pretty much all antifreeze or glycol or whatever you want to call it. it is blue and when it seeps out it will eventually harden into a crust and it stops the leak.

okay so this coolant isn't going to stop seeping. it got cold a few days ago and it was seeping even worse. the warmer...the less.. which makes sense.

so I dumped the bars leak powder in it. seems to have helped, but I think it plugged up the gano filter as it is running hotter then it was before. it says it will fit through a 24 gauge wire mesh....but I have a feeling I will find a blockage when I go to clean the filter. I'm sure there will be other things on the filter too.

I bleed the brakes today and got them going again. took the car out for a run.

WOW WOW WOW what a HUGE difference!! its like it has a supercharger on it now it is making so much more power. no more clacking noise in second either! I found myself looking down and going 40mph when I thought I was only doing 30 just because of how much more it accelerates. its insane!! I can't even explain it. I didn't know these cars had this much pep!

I haven't even set the timing. I did it all by ear for now. could be why it is running alittle warm too.

I ordered Taylor (made in USA) 8mm spiro wound spark plug wires for it. very good brand btw.

I will be looking on ebay for a hub puller as the one I rent from autozone doesn't fit like it does on the 55.

also thanks to DAF for the lug bolts he sent me randomly....I need one today as one stripped. thanks bro!!

I will be sending the carb in for restoration and rebuild to national carb as it is leaking a bit from the shaft. needs a new bushing, which national does as part of the restoration.

Congratulations! A day to remember and not having to walk or be towed home makes it even better.

yeah I didn't venture too far from home, just around the neighborhood.

today was mounting the front bumper and the new pair of "fog" lights. they are actually headlights with high/low capability. gotta wonder about how to wire that all up another day. either to the headlight switch or a separate one. the headlight switch has four positions...so I could use the third for headlights and the fourth for all four. idk....gotta look into it.

I took off the upper radiator hose and the water neck to clean the Gano filter and to change the thermostat from a 180 to a 160. the Gano filter was pretty full of big chunks of rust shavings. like little pebbles in size. that would explain the lack of flow and the increase in temp since putting it in. there was no blockage due to the bars leak, so that was good news.

I went to the auto store and got a new upper radiator hose (had to cut the other one to get it off). and I got a high flow 160 thermostat. it has a larger opening then the 180 that was on there. i'll post the part number tomorrow.

I got everything hooked back up and let it run. I did not put the Gano filter back in this time. the temped stayed right at 180 and did creep up a bit the longer it ran in the garage. 80 degrees today almost and no air flow.

I did set the timing. 2 graduations or 4 degrees to the right of the TDC mark. the only good idle I could get was about 850. but....the spark was all over the place. the light was freaking out. furthering my thoughts that it is missing and I'm pretty sure its the spark plug wires. new wires will be here tomorrow and i'll check the timing again.

I think it sure looks handsome with those new "fog" logs.

timing.....VA off or on for initial?

what is normal idle rpm?

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If you use all 4 head they will overload the generator system and you will have a constant discharge.

no generator. 12v 10si alternator and plenty of amps. I may run them off a separate switch and relay though so not all the amperage is running through the headlights switch when all four are on.

I would definitely suggest you keep the extra current out of the headlight switch. I believe a separate switch hanging under the dash is what Packard would have done but then you have to remember to turn two switches off. Not sure where they picked up power in 37 unless there is a continuously powered aux fuse and terminal for accessories mounted on your headlight switch as there is in later switches.

If you want to do the headlight switch controls all (which IMO, is not a bad idea) you could use the 4th position to power a relay located in the engine compt. If you use a decent size 12ga fused wire coming directly off the solenoid battery connection to the relay and then on to the fog lights the brightness will be at maximum and only relay current will be added to the headlight switch.

I am a believer in mounting a pair of relays for the regular headlights and doing similar to take that current out of old switches as well as eliminate the headlight current going thru several extra feet of small ga wire. By mounting the relays in the engine compt and running a separate fused source you can use the normal dimmer switch output to control the relays and larger power wire gives maximum brightness.

I've made modules for my cars to mount near the fender junction block to conveniently pick up the control signals and the wires to headlight bucket. I know others have a similar setup. This is my 47 module and wire colors. You could make something along that line to mount three relays and run a single 10 or 12ga power wire to supply light current for fog and headlights. You would have to bring out an extra wire to control the fog light relay.

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i had very similar thoughts.

pull the 12v signal from the 4th position on the headlight switch to a two position rocker switch. each side of the switch will go to a respective relay. One relay for low beams and one for high beams. Leave the rocker switch in the low position and when you pull the headlight switch to the 4th position you get all four on low. hit the floor dimmer and turn the rocker switch to high and you get all four on high.

unless you can think of a way to incorporate all four into the floor dimmer switch. i haven't thought that far ahead.

remember this is a modern 12v wiring harness. and with that being said, the current headlights run power through the headlight switch. all the wiring is oversize, so i have no worries the switch can handle it, but no i do not want to add more to it and yes will run the "fogs" on relays.

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Keep the existing headlight circuit as is and for the fogs, use a circuit similar to what I show for headlights but add one extra relay. You would use the 4th headlight position to energize a relay placed in the power feed line right after the circuit breaker. Control the two other relays by connecting the coil signal in parallel with the existing headlights. That way the third switch position would light headlights only and IF I understand the headlight switch operation properly (big IF), 4th position would turn the fogs on or off while still keeping the headlights on. No extra current thru the headlight switch and the foot dimmer would switch both sets of filaments.

If you do equip both fogs and headlights with high and low beams, one question I would ask is if there are any DMV regulations regarding number of headlights (bright beams) and placement. In effect, once the fogs were turned on the car would have four headlights.

there are no relays that i'm aware of on the existing headlights (although i do understand what you mean as i have added the aftermarket relay/harness to my Dart for brighter headlights) But on the 37, it all runs through the headlight switch and the headlights will energize in position 3 and 4 on the headlight switch. basically 4 is not even needed as it is essentiall a duplicate of position 3 as i have it wired now, but serves it's purpose for this project. position 3 and 4 used to have their own purpose...something with the highway/country driving modes or whatever. the way i wired it is like modern cars....a 3 postion....off....driving...headlight. the 4th is just exactly like 3.

what i could do is use the 4th position on the headlight switch to energize two relays for the fogs that passes through the dimmer switch on the floor. low on the dimmer switch powers the low relay and the high on the dimmer will power the high relay.

what i'm not understanding is wheather or not wiring the fogs to the dimmer switch on the floor will actually power them on in headlight switch position 3 since it powers the headlights and they are hooked to the same dimmer switch. i need to make sure the fogs only get power through the floor dimmer switch when the headlight switch is in position 4.

it may not be possible to use the same dimmer switch for both and i may have to mount a switch under the dash as i described in a previous post. the switch under the dash would become the dimmer for the fogs. left for low and right for high. keeping it to the left so it is always ready for low beam when i pull the headlight switch to the number 4 position. if number 4 position is still powered even when position 3 is used (test lamp) then i'll have to have a left for low, middle for off, and right for high to control power from the headlight switch to the relays.


to be honest...i'm not the best at wiring. i'm suprised i got the car wired with the harness i bought to begin with. I think i'm having a hard time understanding your diagram.

as for DMV...I plead the 5th. and with the lights that most "offroad" trucks have...i doubt it will be a problem. on my old truck...i had 4 "fog" lights mounted. they turned on when i put the headlights into highbeams. so i had 6 headlights...noboby ever said a word...but sure did help on those dark country roads.