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Do yourself an enormous favor and do not use any gasoline additives. I will flatly state they do nothing but make a new set of problems especially if two different ones are put together.

When rebuilding carbs I've had not luck with rubber accel pumps of late. It seems they really must be leather to hold up with ethanol. I notice that all the kits coming through from Daytona have leather plungers now.

The black cap would indicate 6v but since the caps can be removed it is possible someone lost the original and replaced it with the wrong one.

I don't know if your car is an early production but for early 55s the caps may also have been black at that time. I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the red caps were a change so dealer mechanics could better differentiate the 12v 55 pumps from the 54s at a glance. I can't remember where I read that or when the change might have happened.

Thanks Ross & HH56!

Ross: the additives were actually a question I had, I wasn't sure if I should add a lead additive and it was recommended to use an additive to combat ethanol. So in your experience neither are helpful?

HH56: Mine is in the 6000 range of production about 9000 so I don't think it's early, but good to know that the cap can be removed and replaced. I was going to pull the unit out of the car and clean it up, but I ended up deciding against it when I got to the wires and decided I needed to plan better lest I break something.

Wanted to ask if anyone has an image or schematic of how the vacuum lines are hooked up to the wipers? I looked around in the service manual and the accessories manual but I didn't come across it.

Trying to figure out how the vacuum lines are run to and from the wiper motor.

This is about as good as it gets for a factory drawing. The two small hoses on the wiper are for the speed or sweep select. One comes off the tee and is vacuum supply to the select valve and the other is output from the valve to a connection on the side of the front bumpout and works a piston inside to modify the sweep arc. When you hook the hoses up to the switch, if you hear a hissing noise with the lever at one extreme position or the other, reverse the hoses. You can do it at either end.

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Your car was given a new gas tank, new fuel pump and rblt carb, there was no need for any "mechanic in a can" to de- gum or treat the fuel system. We put an identical accel pump in gas and it was fine. My conclusion is that there was some chemical added to the fuel system that caused the deterioration.

Got it. Sounds like everyone agrees: don't use the ethanol treatment.

I thought maybe it was some issue because of the winter version of the fuel and letting it sit for almost a month, I didn't put any additives in it at that time.

Thanks to the provided schematic I was able to confirm everything was hooked up properly. But the wipers still didn't work. While checking the connections again I of course broke one. Not sure how to correct this screw up but at least it's not something major.

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I think your motor is going to need the rebuild but with the hose hard and brittle enough to break off like that it might be a good idea to replace all of the vacuum hoses. A crack or loose fitting hose on a connector can cause loss of function as well as a vacuum leak affecting the engine performance. Vacuum hose should be available at good parts stores and may be listed at the nominal sizes or possibly the store might carry them at 1/32 less for a tighter fit on the connections. Water hoses may not need to change unless they appear as hard and stiff as the sweep hose.

The vacuum supply hose from the balance valve to washer and between washer and co-ordinator is a nominal 3/16 ID but the store may carry it listed at 5/32. The small loop on the washer lid should also be the same.

The vacuum supply hose between balance valve and motor is nominal 1/4" or 7/32. There are also two short lengths between the balance valve and the steel tubings coming from the manifold and the aux pump which should be the same size. If needed, the water hose from washer to the tee under the dash should also be the same 1/4.

The two small hoses for the sweep control are nominal 1/8" or 3/32. The two water hoses under the dash from the tee to the individual wiper nozzles are also 1/8".

In all the larger sizes a 3' length for each run should be sufficient with a bit left over. On the two small hoses between motor and wiper switch I think it may be a 4' or even 5' length. You will have to measure for accuracy.

Sounds like I'll have to reach out to Fickens.