Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

1940 160 Conv. Sedan.

I want to take the driver's door to the paint shop. There's a little bubble of something at the bottom of it. (rust, despite measure s to prevent it when it was painted last). I unbolted the 3 bolts inside the cab, removed them and the loose plate (so happy I stuck insulation down that kick panel abyss). I pulled the lower exterior hinge pin.

But for the life of me I cannot remove the door. I can open the door, lift up on it, but it doesn't come free of the car.

Is there a trick?

Is there something more to remove besides the 3 bolts and the pin on the bottom exterior hinge?

I have a scratch on the rear fender and a pock from my front tire picking up something and hurling it at the inside of the front fender. I'm so proud I removed the rear fender and the front fender, only to feel stupid because I can't get the blasted door free.

Please help, as I am helping Big Kev.

Are you removing the door by removing the hinge screws on the pillar side or removing the bolts from inside the door? If from the pillar side and the hinge is the type that is recessed in the pillar, there is usually a screw hidden inside the hinge about in the middle that you cannot see or access unless the door is wide open. If from the door side, some hinges have a small drilled hole with a roll pin or other locating method to keep the hinge and door aligned and prevent movement after the bolts are tightened. If a roll pin is stuck in the hinge strap it might be preventing it from sliding out the opening.

I don't know if 40s had the same type door check as later models but if so the check stays in the door so the rivet on the pillar side has to be removed so the door will separate.

Thank you, Howard. I wish my brain could understand this. Here are some photos.

I'm gripping the inside of the door (upholstery panel is removed) with gloves after pulling the bottom hinge pin. It just does Not come out.

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Wish I had a 40 to look at but it is too long ago when I helped disassemble one to remember details. We did pull the doors though and don't remember anything special we did. This is where we need Flackmaster's expertise.

With the lower hinge pin out, will the door lift up or out at all or does it seem rigid top or bottom? Did the hinge pin need to come out or could the hinge be unbolted from the door instead? The upper hinge is kind of an odd shape and I couldn't find any photos to remind me how the upper hinge attaches on the door side -- is the arm going inside a slot and the bolts that hold the hinge located inside the door or are the bolts exposed on the edge? If in a slot, could there be a hidden bolt or possibly a roll pin? If no and the bolts are visible and out, will the door lift off or slide away from either hinge at all? Any hints on where the bind seems to be happening would help jog the memory. Is there a door check of the bar type where one side is fastened to the pillar and a bar sides inside the door?

The door is not rigid at all. It slides out un to the first joint. I think I've seen a drawing in the parts manual. I'll look for that.

Since the hinge pin comes out, I wasn't going to attempt to remove the lower hinge screws.

When I get home from work, I'll try turning those 4 hinge screws at the top of the door. One turned a bit. They may have been taken off when the car was painted and if so, then it will come off.

The hinges were removed, which made for some fitting problems after. But the driver's door hinge has one screw with only half a head. I wouldn't put something like that back in, so it may be more likely the shop couldn't get it out. Just have to try it.

If I can get this upper door hinge screws off, that would do it, of course.

But I distinctly remember asking my neighbor to help me install the two front doors. The tongue just slid in there behind the plate after putting the arm through the opening and the bolts tightened on the inside.

Howard, There is something poking through the arm on the inside that feels like the tip of a big metal screw. I'll see if I can get the camera in there.

So frustrating.

Edit: The Parts Book drawing didn't show the rubber bumper.

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Besides Howard's help, I had the help of a friend in Santa Rosa. Up in the far corner, on the back side of the arm is a rubber bumper. You'd think after paying a small fortune to Steele Rubber for it, I'd remember it.

I undid the 3/8th nut and pushed the screw back and the bumper fell into the safety net of insulation I stuffed in the kick panel drop space...this after dropping a few items down there back in the day.

The door lifted right out. Tomorrow I'll drop them at the paint shop. Then will trailer her to my son's place in Salem for a new radiator and head gasket. In the meantime, replacing the headlight switch and the coil.

Just want to be sure I make it to Pebble Beach.

Thanks Howard and Don.

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Leave it to Packard to have something sneaky and undocumented. At least you know the bumper actually hits something and will serve a purpose -- if it doesn't cushion the door, it will at least keep it from falling off.