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The units work both in positive (55) and negative (56 )ground cars . The changeover kit that was available from Packard consisted of a short (6") wiring harness of 3 or 4 wires. The 55 unit wires
attached on the outside of the control unit while the 56 unit had a cover plate through which the wires went and connected inside a small weather protected compartment

Thanks
James

Thanks and the kit was a short section of three wires to be spliced to the 55 loom. Just to confirm we are talking the conversions, not original switches, and you are saying the solid state replacements are NOT polarity specific so one can be ordered and work in either year or survive an accidental battery cable swap? At worst all that might be needed is a change in wire ends so the terminals and wires hook up?

Well while the suspension is on hold I have been enjoying driving the car and just scheduled some paint work for the front doors.......when I opened the hood and saw my radiator was leaking.

So the question is; do we have a source on radiators (I looked at Kanter's and it said to inquire and I have), are there recommendations about replacing the radiators (I see nothing in the parts x-ref) and lastly is it better to have it repaired or just flat out replace it?

It seems like a pretty simple job to do, but now I think my money is better spent on that than paint.

AFAIK, there is nothing available that can just drop in. There is a Ford pickup radiator that can be made to fit with some extra brackets but is obviously not correct. IMO, it is a waste of money trying to find good used due to exactly what you have experienced. It may work for awhile but will most likely fail in short order after being put back into use.

If your tanks are still straight and in good condition then a visit to a radiator shop is in order. It could be just a seam that opened and can be resoldered but if not then the money you would spend on used would be better spent on a new core. A new core is not cheap but probably no worse than a whole new radiator -- if you could find one.

If you are contemplating adding AC down the road the shop could also give you options on increasing cooling capacity. IIRC, Packard standard radiators had a 3 row core and with AC cars it was 4 rows plus a larger fan-- although many in more moderate climates have been OK with just the larger fan.

Brice Thomas radiators. Send them the old one.... they will CAD it and build you a brand new one out of aluminum and then they will have it on file for others to buy. It'll be about the same as a recore as far as cost. Just a thought. They did my 37.

Oh wow, that's a really good idea

Good afternoon...We did this with a local aluminum radiator builder in Phoenix, and the new radiator just dropped into place and bolted down tight. Works great on our 1949 288 Deluxe...Ernie

1.The current use of aluminum radiators as OE is they weigh less and lower weight yields better MPG.
2. In racing use where they get abuse they stand up better
3 They will withstand up to 30 psi which can occur in racing applications

Most information you will find on the internet are from companies that sell aluminum radiators. Here is a balanced look:

1. Copper is superior to aluminum in heat conductivity.
2. In copper radiators, the tubes are narrow. On the other hand, the tubes in aluminum radiators are wider.
3. The tubes of copper get clogged more than that of Aluminum tubes.
4. When the aluminum radiator uses a one-inch wide tube, the copper radiator uses only a half-inch tube.
5. Aluminum is a better resistant to damage than copper.
6. When tubes in aluminum radiators are welded to the tank, the tubes in copper radiators are soldered.
7. In respect of weight, Aluminum is lighter than copper.
8. Copper is easier to repair than Aluminum radiator

Read more: Difference Between Aluminum and Copper Radiator | Difference Betweendifferencebetween.net/object/auto-object ... -and-copper-radiator/#ixzz4uy1lWs7x

1.The current use of aluminum radiators as OE is they weigh less and lower weight yields better MPG.
2. In racing use where they get abuse they stand up better
3 They will withstand up to 30 psi which can occur in racing applications

Most information you will find on the internet are from companies that sell aluminum radiators. Here is a balanced look:

1. Copper is superior to aluminum in heat conductivity.
2. In copper radiators, the tubes are narrow. On the other hand, the tubes in aluminum radiators are wider.
3. The tubes of copper get clogged more than that of Aluminum tubes.
4. When the aluminum radiator uses a one-inch wide tube, the copper radiator uses only a half-inch tube.
5. Aluminum is a better resistant to damage than copper.
6. When tubes in aluminum radiators are welded to the tank, the tubes in copper radiators are soldered.
7. In respect of weight, Aluminum is lighter than copper.
8. Copper is easier to repair than Aluminum radiator

Read more: Difference Between Aluminum and Copper Radiator | Difference Betweendifferencebetween.net/object/auto-object ... -and-copper-radiator/#ixzz4uy1lWs7x

Thanks for the really great info. So far I'm still waiting on a quote from Brice Thomas. There's another guy nearby but they don't like to give quotes, which makes me question them since all I'm asking for is to re-core this radiator. I'll install it.

I'd like to get it done before Christmas so the car doesn't sit without running too long, but this is really low on my other priorities lol