Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Ah yes...I forget something that is available at almost every parts store here in the U.S.may not be available across the ponds. Here is what the can looks like in the event you come across it:

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...........UPDATE...........................................

2 front ones out so far!

Really stuck fast, had to cut flat heads off and hammer the bolts back in.

Having a cup of tea now and a hairy mince pie I found at the back of the cupboard then back to work!

You haven't said that your Bijur was not operational, but that seems rather obvious from your problems. Perhaps this is old news to you, but as you work on the chassis, don't forget that the Bijur also lubricates the pedals and main brake shaft under the seat and eventually you'll develop erratic brake operation if they're not lubricated. Also the Bijur lubricated the clutch throw-out bearing so if you installed an NOS-type bearing it won't last long w/o the Bijur. And if you installed a modern sealed bearing, then don't forget to terminate that Bijur line or you'll end up with oil on the clutch.

Still working on the shackles. Have the 3 out from one front side. Extremly difficult to get the new pins through the front shackles, a very tight fit indeed.

The Bijour is not supplying any oil to the front, the oil lines contain hardened oil residue, who knows how long it has been like this. The pin were worn by 1/3 of their diameter, the bronze (?) bushings were in good shape and needed to be cut and drifted out.

More later!

Pat.

The soft copper tubing Bijur used is a bit of an odd size, 5/32 OD as I remember, but you can still get it. If you can isolate the section of line that's plugged, you can cut out the plugged portion, replace with new tubing, and connect with compression gland fittings where cut. But if the system is that plugged chances are the drip plug filters are also encrusted solid and you'll have to replace them, though you could consider back-flushing with lacquer thinner. New ones are available.

Check the vacuum diaphram on the Bijur pump to see if it holds vacuum, if not it will not pump and you'll need to replace the vacuum diaphram. Since it's a crimped unit, you'll need to carefully but it open replace the rubber, and then make a clamping arrangement to close it again. Or send it out for rebuild - I can give you a recommendation. There is a felt inlet filter in the base of the pump, should probably be cleaned as well. And don't forget the internal passages in the shackle eyes and the trunnion block.

When finished, use SAE40 or 50 (preferred) oil in the Bijur.

My Bijur lines were fairly clogged up with old oil. I found I could clear them out with lacquer thinner and pipe cleaners. Obviously, very long pipe cleaners. If you can find a 50cc syringe, they work great for blasting thinner through the lines (obviously, no needle).

Tom

Interesting you mention the syringe. When I left work I took a couple of 100 cc glass syringes with me. It's amazing how often I use them, two major uses are (1) adding hydraulic fluid to the shocks on the 1934, and adding brake fluid to the 56.

I blew out my Bijur lines a little differently. I fixed a 1 qt steel can with solvent to the lines and pressurized it with a few PSI of compressed air and blew until solvent came out at each terminus. None of the lines were clogged and all the drip plugs were still working, I just wanted to start out with a clean system.

My replacement leaf springs (from a 34' 1101, possibly a limo) appear to have 11 leafs, my origional ones have 10.
Any thoughts?

There were several different springs used depending on body style and weight, engine and chassis. Do you have a parts book? Info on loads and rates are in it. If you don't have one, you should make the investment in one.