Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

My recommendation would be to pull the oil pan if you don't know that it's been done recently. My 56 Carib has always had quiet lifters and was clean as a whistle under the valve covers but when I dropped the oil pan, while it was fairly clean, the inlet screen to the oil pump was about 50% choked off with sludge. Plus while the pan is off, check a couple of rod and main bearings, just for peace of mind if for no other reason.

Morgan.
If u pull the pan be sure to confer with us on your findings.

Be sure to save any sludge that has collected on the bottom of the pan. Sift thru it looking for solid debris. Will most likely find black plastic pieces resembling a thick small finger nail or smaller. Probably find a few valve keepers among other things too. ESPECIALY look for the small black plastic pieces. They will be valve seals.

Also need to inspect the oil pump CLOSELY even if u do not remove it. Only 2wo bolts holding on.

If you're going to drop the oil pan, this would be a good time to address the oil pump issue, wouldn't it? (I assume they had the same issue with Patricians).

I noticed that the lifter noise always started when the engine temp reached the center of the gauge, (presumably when the thermostat clicked on) that also caused a drop in oil pressure. Remember the car came without a thermostat; so we removed the new thermostat and started running 15w40 with a quart of MMO (adding a few magical incantations). The engine was quiet and I drove into down and paraded down the main street, oil pressure stayed up and the temp gauge only moved a quarter off C even in traffic. After a hour of so the brakes started to bind and smoke the last mile or so and I returned home less then happy as it appears that she now needs a new master brake cylinder. Funny, the brakes also improve when everything cools down, does anyone know if the cylinder and lines used to be covered with some insulation as it get hot as H__ down there.. The transmission also lost reverse but it returned when everything cooled, someone said that Lucas makes a product that could help. Progress is slow but progress so I cancelled the order for the potting soil for the Patrician.

There was no insulation on brake lines--just bare steel. It really does sound like you need the Treadle Vac rebuilt. Todays symptom along with the low pedal last time sure sounds like the compensator valve has issues. It, along with anything internal or external preventing free & complete pedal travel affecting valves operation would be the common factor both times. The fluid is either leaking past not holding pressure in the first case, or trapped and can't bleed off to allow for expansion in the second.

Were you able to shift into reverse with any clunks or action at all, but the engine just raced or something different. If nothing and engine raced, sounds like the trans has some worn bushings which hot thin fluid can't hold pressure and escapes around or a stuck valve when things expand from heat. Don't think any additives will help the first, but maybe would help the second.

Smoking brakes??? What, all 4 of them, just 3 or 1 or just the fronts or what??? Could be bad brake hose(s).

There is a relatively simple adjustment for reverse and low on the trans. Look in the manual for the propcedure.

Lifter noise,

One evening at one of the PAC meets during the parking lot review and tech exchanges, one V8 owner said he had a car that the prior owner just added an extra quart of oil to keep the lifters quiet. He kept up the practice and never had a problem. Has anyone heard this before?

That's what I do.

Packard V8 Thanks for the input. All four were smoking. I thought that the apportioning valve was sticking allowing only the front brakes to work, but it now appears that when it gets hot and the breaks are depressed it is just not releasing the pressure causing the binding. Will try to run through the check list for cause of the hard brake and binding, We replaced all four of the brake calipers and flushed the lines several times, most likely it needs to be rebuilt, someone mentioned a Bendix would be safer. Regarding the transmission it has not been opened and were hoping for the best (fluids not burned and is clean), in low range drive you have a distinct clunk when it shifts, high range drive is smooth and thought that it could be a sticky value that a few miles would correct.

There is no proportioning valve-just a residual check valve to keep 5-10psi in lines so piston cups in cylinders don't move out of position. Possible it is bad, but would have to be totally blocking the line to cause yesterdays issue. Haven't heard of one in that condition unless it got a dose of petroleum product and swelled--but if that the case, it would be that way all the time and you should have problems applying.

I'd pay particular attention to this guy. The valve is essentially a blob of rubber with a stem on each end. The spring pulls and holds it in the upright position. Rubber and seat as well as the spring have to be in PERFECT condition for a seal. When the pedal is FULLY in back position, a lip on piston rod end catches the lower part of stem and tips it back allowing fluid to exit or replenish the master cylinder. If pedal not full travel, no tip. Conversely, as soon as pedal pressed and piston moves, spring has to return to absolute straight up down position to make the seal and provide pressure.

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