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Removed the left front drum today to do an inspection of the brake shoes.

I have never seen the way the front wheel bearing is held in place before on any vehicle. I am used to seeing the old "castle" nuts and a cotter pin.
This it had a cotter pin, an outer nut, a unique washer with numerous holes around its perimeter and then another nut that had a dowel pin that would engage a hole in the washer. There was a small piece of broken metal that I assumed engaged the keyway slot, otherwise there is nothing that would prevent then from backing off

Any idea what this is called and where I can find a set?

-John

That double nut and washer setup was used several years. Here is what the washer should look like. IIRC, there was another poster who found his tang had broken off and was able to weld a tab onto the washer to make it serviceable. Can't remember who it was or if he had tried Kanter or Max. They would be the most likely places to find NOS if they are available.

Here is Packards instructions out of the 46-40 SM on how to tighten the nuts.

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That's a pretty common method, Packard and other makes used it for years. If the keyway tab is broken you can braze a repair tab. Flipping the ring with the holes gives a full second set of locking positions so a very precise setting is possible. See some pix and discussion of this on The Packard Club forum.

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That's it. I will contact Kanter and Max Merritt tomorrow. Short of that, I will weld/ braze a tab

Thanks all !

Make sure you hold the inner nut while tigthing the out nut to keep from breaking off the keyway tab.
Wes

I am doing the king pins and bushings at the moment and decided to replace the wheel bearings and seals while I have the car all apart as I try to find the noise and vibrations from the front end
I was quite surprised to see the wear on the inner wheel bearing nut, significant cutting into the nut. There is no washer between this nut and the bearing. What is causing this?
Also, is there a more scientific method of tightening the bearing other than tighten securely and then back off 3 - 4 holes on the pin and washer?

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I beleive that's about it, I had found on the internet a new up-to-date and it was about the same. If I can find it I will post later.
Wes

Update I found it.
timken.com/pdf/7562_LV4%20Wheel-Bearing-Replacement.pdf

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Thanks Wesley

This is more on the line of what I was look9ng for, except there is no way I can get a socket on the nut as it is inset into the hub so far. Gives me an idea of how tight it has to be so will go from there

Your welcome, there's been a few topics on this subject you might want to look at:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0 or doing a little more searching.

Wes

...there is no way I can get a socket on the nut as it is inset into the hub so far

Assuming you have enough thread left outboard, just add a suitably thick washer between the bearing and the first nut. Best would be a high quality aircraft type washer which would have the sides ground flat and parallel, and be hardened.