Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Next time you do one of these you might want to make life a bit easier for the fingers as they pass thru the gap between the two steel segments by forming a very small radius on the facing outer corners of the segments, this will ease the transition of the fingers onto the following segment. Others have taken to filling the gap between the two steel segments with a dielectric filler to accomplish the same thing - less stress on the fingers in passing the gap and reengaging on the far side.

Hi..Dave.

It really doesn't show..but this does have. It..

My dad did it.

And I did the 56 Caribbean I had..

My dads and the I did both have phenolic and epoxy..

Thanks....

Kyb. Look like Gabriel..

The older type shocks are larger around..

Attach file:

---

  (113.54 KB)

Shocks.

And set back....shift motor...

Going to try to get it off without pulling trans..again

Manual shaft does not have 1/4 inch cut off of it.. Changed shaft do to slight binding.

Hopefully I can get it off like others say can be done..

Monroe and kyb..

The Monroe..easy down...hard to pull up..

Kyb..no snubbing.. Besides gas..easy both ways..nothing holding rear end down.

I perfer the Monroe valving..the down could be stiffer..Those are 79 era..

The Gabriel. Look like kyb...they are gas too. Think valving same..

Attach file:

---

  (111.08 KB)


  (215.91 KB)

Ok.

Owe. John. Dave...Ross. Your right...you can get shift motor off..with trans in..

Had to use a crow bar..could not find my little jack....found it after motor was off. And removed driver side exhaust pipe..

Windings look good.. But..the jumper wire came off when I pulled end cap back...cold..solder joint.

So..this time..doing it right..?..instead of soldering to a stub...going to do it like was done when made..

If these windings cooked..these can be rewound.

If the window motors. Are the same they can be done too...

These look like 16 ga..magnet wire..

I nicked one..so will get some varnish and brush it over it.. Magnet wire varnish..

And rethinking...my cable wire...it's flexible...but down the road it will get hard and crack..

Attach file:

---

  (249.31 KB)


  (218.81 KB)


  (170.75 KB)


  (183.53 KB)


  (151.54 KB)

That's how I do it, each and every time.

Thanks.

John..

Ordered. 12 ga wire. Red one in middle.

It's more like 14 ga.

12 ga from cable wire..black
The other fine wire..is 10 ga Super flexible..I think they use that type of wire for little jumper wire..

But all I saw was 10. Must be test lead wire..

Attach file:

---

  (83.08 KB)

Coated windings.

Attach file:

---

  (111.90 KB)

The varnish will keep the individual wires together but would suggest wrapping a single layer of friction or electrical tape on the ends and not rely on just the varnish there. When the coils are powered they will shift a small amount and could rub against the motor case making short work of the varnish. Some liquid electrical tape can also provide a bit more bulk than the varnish for bared spots where the wrapping is mostly still good.

The center side portion where the shoe slides to hold the coil looks OK and there is no room for more tape there anyway but ends do need a bit. Any extra thickness added, make sure the inner armature side is no thicker than the rest of the coil and the whole coil end doesn't get pushed out as it is mounted. At the very end where the colored wire solders on a little bulk is OK but on the inner side, the end of the armature can hit any extra and rub.