Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

While working on repairing my son's headboard to his bed, I found a close match to the Carpathian Elm color paint, Root Beer Brown form one of the hardware stores. ;>)
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (226.23 KB)

NICE, Wes...That Dash should look as good as, or better than new...Ernie in Arizona

Thanks for the kind words Ernie, but after my first attempt of doing wood grain, it might be a different story. I've watch the videos on how to do it, they make it look so easy! I guess maybe I better re-watch the videos again.

So far this is what I've tried.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (120.71 KB)


  (171.00 KB)


  (235.12 KB)

One thing I am kind of curious about is your base coat. It appears in the photos to be darker and a different shade than that suggested by GrainIt. Since you are applying the dark toned pattern over the base coat the base should be the color of the lighter grain so that it will show thru and form the pattern. My base was a light orange yellowish color. As previously mentioned, the DuPont paint which GrainIt says works best with their method and ink was very thin. It took several coats to cover and get a uniform application because I made the mistake of using a relatively dark red primer and that kept showing thru.

Due to the "stink" effect that particular paint is outlawed by the air resources board in Calif so I was only able to buy a max of 4 touchup spray cans locally. That was enough to finish the job and did cost less than what GrainIt charges for a can. If the paint is legal in TN you might see if you can get their recommended paint made up in your area. There is a name and formula in the literature that came with the kit. Paint store info has the recommended primer as white or light gray for that color.

The ink pattern did fade and sort of blend into the base the longer it dried which I am not entirely sure how much affects the final look. I was concerned enough not to use the toner but GrainIt said not to worry as it would "perk up" with the final clear. It did to a large extent without the toner but still was not as vibrant as when first rolled on. Wonder on yours if there could be some kind of reaction between the two paints which might be making the overall pattern dark and low detail in your samples.

I spent over $400.00 on a camera and I still can't take good pictures. My family often says I can't take pictures worth a hoot. But still when comparing to the original, both the color and gain still don't look correct. I used light gray primer and Carpathian Elm as the base coat. As you can see from my previous post ( Dash and headboard) the Carpathian Elm looks like maybe I shouldn't use the toner.

Well back to the drawing board.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (198.58 KB)


  (275.91 KB)


  (208.01 KB)


  (256.45 KB)


  (220.87 KB)


  (250.66 KB)

Here are two more sets of pictures, starting with the base coat only, next with the toner and last with the print. The reason I'm applying the toner before the print is a suggestion from Grain-It's latest video.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (224.68 KB)


  (176.87 KB)


  (284.95 KB)


  (131.64 KB)


  (118.71 KB)


  (321.46 KB)

Well I think I'm getting there. Did a double print with the Carpathian Elm Burl and I think it's starting to look good just need to put on the clear coat to make it shine more.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (261.12 KB)


  (273.00 KB)

Well slowly getting there, maybe not the best but for first time, I'm happy so far. This just isn't as easy as it looks in the videos. You need a steady hand and have to be able to roll a straight line. Also lots of practice.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (264.32 KB)


  (275.97 KB)


  (272.59 KB)

Looking good but IMO, the fun is just starting on those pieces. When I got to the corners it became interesting. I made extra small rollers and flat pieces for them but still resorted to using some colorful language when they didn't fully cooperate in the 45 degree corner. May you have a better technique than I.