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okay i put the limit switch back on and still nothing. only clicking noises from the solenoids. so i took the solenoids off and tested them individually, there is no output from the top post when they click. the motor will spin when i bypass the solenoids and just use the limit switch polls, which means i fixed the limit switch, but the solenoids are probably toast from me mounting them backwards.

know anywhere to get two new ones. they are 75 bucks from MAX. part number is DR1497 12V i am guessing it is a continuous solenoid...can anyone confirm that?

i found this on the internet...will it work??

Solenoid link click here

Not likely damaged from hooking up backward but possibly had some prior. Stupid question but are the solenoids mounted correctly so the battery is hooked to correct large terminal? Probably is since it clicked but make sure. You probably no longer can see the labels with the paint, but there is a faint BAT stamped in the area between the small terminal and battery input side large one.

They are intermittent duty and there is another place that may be cheaper if it turns out you do need one. Mr Pushbutton supplied this link.

UPDATE: Cole-Hersee # 24046

colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm

i put positive to the BAT terminal and Negative to the small one on the side of the solenoid. the top large bolt does nothing when i stick it to the motor terminals. the motor works when i test t manual and it works when i test it with the limit switch, it stops when i put the solenoids on.

how long do they need to stay on in the intermittent version....i have seen different intermittent times for on and off periods.

also since mine were covered in rubberized coating...i am guessing they are internally grounded and not ground via the casing.

so....intermittent insulated 12v solenoid 3 prong would be needed?

thanks again dude!

Hank

how about this one...looks like it comes sealed good with PVC.

http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm

As long as the motor was also grounded when you tested, then it does sound as if solenoid. What happens when you hook the motor to solenoids, put the negative on bat post, pos on frame and then touch the small terminal to frame?

EDIT you'll have to give a solenoid number. The link just comes up with catalog page. The duty time is probably 30 seconds max from one limit to the other.

okay....

this is what i did

1. connect positive to bottom of the solenoid marked BAT (big terminal) and also to the frame. connected NEG to the small terminal and the other big terminal to one of the poles on the motor. that did nothing

2 tried what you said....NEG to bottom large terminal on solenoid marked BAT. positive to the small terminal and to the frame and then touched the other large terminal to one of the poles on the motor. it worked. and when i touched the small terminal to the frame it clicked the solenoid.

so what does that mean....

the part number for the plasticized one is 24077 but it is cheaper for the 24046 and i can plasticize them myself ;0)

15 bucks a piece on ebay ;0) i bought these

.pdf of their solenoids....http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/H-Relays.pdf

It sounds as if the solenoid is working and there is an open or poor connection or too small of wire somewhere. You almost need to mount the solenoids on plate with the bat buss bar & the motor connected properly. Connect the neg bat to the bus bar either directly or with a piece of heavy wire. Make sure there is a good ground connection between the motor and frame with no paint and a good connection between your pos battery cable and frame. When that is OK, then take a small piece of wire and touch the small solenoid terminal to the frame. If it works then that was the issue, if not then solenoid.

Edit: The 24077 is the same relay in a plastic case and would work if that is what you want.

when i had the whole system correctly mounted and i fixed the limit switch and the direction of the solenoids...it still only clicked the solenoids and did nothing to the motor. when i bypassed the solenoids it worked.

also i took the nuts off one of the solenoids already and noticed one of the wires inside was fried.(had to look inside with a flashlight inside one of the openings, little copper wire was busted apart)...plus they are about 50 years old, so i might as well replace them....if that still doesn't work...well....i will be knocking on your door again. ;0) LOL!

i bought those ones on ebay, so we well see what happens with those, until then THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!! ;0) much appreciated!

later,

Hank

Sounds like a plan. What's the next project to start?

now that i have that on hold....i will start rebuilding the rear suspension and rear differential and remounting to the frame. ;0) one question about that....should i put some RTV on the diff housing seal?? or just mount it and put the diff into the housing and hope it stays. the first time i tried it came off. what was the proper mounting procedure for that seal if any?

be looking for updates on that this weekend, gonna be colder here then and i will be in the toasty garage ;0)

later dude