Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Hi James

We have used Kanter for over 30 years and appreciate your support and knowledge

There were two different sized pins in the kit supplied, #9 & # 10. I could not read the number on the old pins as they are corroded. Here is a photo for comparison

The anti rattle springs were badly corroded on this 80 year old car and one was broken in half. Fortuneately, I was able to find very close ones at a local auto store

The springs that I think should have been included is the one from the secondary shoe to the small spring tie down on the backing plate, the smaller black spring at about the 3:00 postion in the photo. I reluctantly used the old pins after cleaning them up on a wire wheel

Attach file:

---

  (97.44 KB)


  (83.49 KB)

1939 brake shoes. Axle. It looks like some shims were added to your brake shoes, I had this problem on my 37 C , with peplacement bonded shoes that had a loose fit on the top pin. My original riveted shoes were reinforced at the top and so thicker. I made up some shims attached to the shoes to solve . Also the bonded shoes material is slightly wider at the bottom, so l machined the slot out in the wheel cylinder pin. I guess I should of had reclined the original sloes. What fits isn't allways the same Carry on. Dave

For those that have been following, found the issue with the loose parking brake cable after overhauling the rear brakes.

After years of being under tension (and the corrosion) I guess the release of the tension on the cable while they were disconnected from the rear plates allowed the front pbrake cable( from equalizer to handbrake) to unravel and is currently held together with about 3 strands.

I'll order a replacement from Kanter on Monday.

Regarding the brake shoe hold-down pins== I have used the following pins when doing brake jobs on Packards. These are available on-line or any good auto parts store. The longer pins can be made to work by putting washers between head and backing plate, but why not use the correct parts!

Raybestos H1105 length 2 1/32 (number 2 on head)
Raybestos H1106 length 2 1/8 (number 8 or 12 on head)
Raybestos H1107 length 2 3/16 (number 3 or 4 on head)

Would purchase and have on hand as spares

Regards

Great info Dallas, thank you ! Based on your info and what I measure of the corroded pin, I need 8 or 12, ~2 1/8"

Thanks !!

Hi John,

Private message me when you order the brake cable from us. I have 4 number 8 pins I will send out with the order. Hope this helps you.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

I'm doing the same project on my '41 160. Why is the gasket between the outer seal retainer and the outer seal housing shaped as it is; with only 1 bolt hole and a hole that lines up with the weep hole in the backing plate? The gasket between the seal retainer and the backing plate is the same shape and bolt pattern as the axle flange, why is the other one different? Seems like with only 1 bolt holet, it would tighten unevenly. When I took mine apart the right side had one of the odd shaped gaskets, but on the driver's side, they were both the same, the one that was supposed to be the oddball clearly homemade, and gues what, it leaked! So there must be a reason. I'm making my own gaskets and it's simpler to just use a shim as a template, but clearly, the engineers had something in mind when they designed that gasket.

I recall holes for each of the bolts and made gaskets accordingly and later found new gaskets that also had 4 bolt holes as I recall

Ok, I was planning to just use the shim as a template for both gaskets (seal retainer to backing plate, and oil guard to seal retainer), but, if you look at the diagram in post #12 on this thread, the gasket 12.031 is different. Still not sure why.

OK rear axle gurus: I replaced the inner/outer seals and repacked the bearing on the right side of my '41 160. I just reassembled with the shims back in exactly like they came out (between axle housing flange and brake support plate), used proper new gaskets in the right places. It's snug now but I need the torque spec for the 6 bolts that hold the whole thing together. Also, I have zero end play, which was not the case before disassembly. The other side has the backing plate removed, but I haven't coaxed it out yet, so that relationship was preserved. During assembly, I used the backing plate without the outer seal retainer and oil guard and sungged the bolts evenly to seat the bearing race; didn't want to lean too hard on the oil guard to seat the race. The only thing I can think of is that I outsmarted myself by doing that and got the race too far in. I wonder if it will relax with use, but really concerned about jamming the thrust block because I hear they can break. Any thoughts? Is re-shimming a common necessity when doing this job, even though one replaces the shims exactly as they came out?