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ordered

Ordered this for my shop library
Thanks

Getting ready for St Pattys day

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Well.... with a lot of help from Fred at MAX MERRITT I got the needed parts for the machinist to take the stock block to the 3.5 bore. and.....
I needed 2 replacement rods due to loose pin holes in the rods.

I "did not read all the notes about rod to crank bearings" so had 4 of the original rods opened .020 to take late model .010 over sized bearings.
Trued the head, added hardened seats and had valves ground to match.

Had the cam reground bydeltacam.com/

The crank trued by
Custom Crankshaft,4319 A St, Tacoma, WA 98418
(253) 476-4431

As mentioned earlier had the Trans rebuilt by
TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE COtxchange.com/main.htm


Now comes the fun of remembering where all the pieces and nuts/bolts are and get it reassembled .

Of course as all projects that sit for 9 months I'll need to remove all the crap that has collected around the car.... :)
More to follow

Hey Larry,

Following your blog with interest. I recently went through a motor/transmission rebuild with my '39 Six (245 CID) and presume your 'process' is/will be similar. My motor had been the victim of a 'back yard murder-rebuild-job' and the machine shop ended up having to go .60 thou over to clean up the worst cylinder and, course, the rest got the same treatment. I respond here mainly because you asked about connecting a 'modern' oil filter to your block and I wanted to pass along the detail on what has been done to my car by a previous owner. It uses a Purolator #55 (I believe/will confirm) and is plumbed into the 1/8" NPT outlet/inlet holes in the block. I think some of the more stringent purists than I, have done this, but 'hide' the modern filter in a period-authentic housing. The previous owner who did the add-on with my car simply bolted a bracket to the inner fender and plumbed the lines with semi-rigid copper tubing and compression fittings. The filter is there in plain sight. Having this adapted to a proper Packard oil filter housing would definitely look better, I guess it depends on how far you want to go. I have one picture that shows it but if of any interest, I can certainly take some better ones and pass along. Good luck with your project and I hope the rebuild yields the same dramatic difference in performance as mine did. Running properly, Packard's six is a pretty decent little power plant. Chris.

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The 1937 block has no oil ports on the left side or tapped holes on the cylinder head to mount a filter.

I attached a line to the front main galley on the right side of the block,and routed it up and behind the water pump, then along the head to the inlet side of a aftermarket filter housing. I drilled and tapped a hole in the block behind the generator and attached a tube to the discharge side of the filter housing.
The filter housing uses a .060" hole in the center tube as the restriction. I fabricated a bracket that mounts between the water outlet and the head to mount the filter housing.

I didn't like the idea of boring the original connecting rods to the later bearing od. This process will expose the rod bolt at the parting line. Instead I used Clevite #988P std. These fit various Nissan models from 1968-1989. Standard size Nissan rod journal is the same size as Packard .010" undersize. I set bearing clearance at .002 mains, and .0018 rods. Oil pressure is 40# hot using 5w-30 oil. It requires cutting the lug notches in the rod and cap, and drilling the pin oil hole and spit hole in the bearing.

I'll post pictures of the oil system.

right front oil line

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behind water pump

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filter bracket

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return line to crankcase

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