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So I started posting about this problem two years ago.

The original wheel covers on my Packard slowly rotate in the same direction as the wheel only slightly faster until the hole for the valve-stem grabs the stem and rips it out.

1954 Cavalier.

PiSSSSSSSSSSS

It was suggested I put in metal stems which I did yesterday.

I run Coker Classic Whitewall tires which are Radial. I believe the radial tires flex's the steel wheel which walks the hub cap.

As I am not in the car repair biz I took it to the local car-care center and did the fronts only so far. The rear don't seem to creep as I expect there is more weight in the front.

Now that I am on Corina Stay Home and gas is cheap we are crusing town in the old buggy.

I actually got my old 22 Model T out for a run and had no Beamer Assault issues. Nary a Diesel Dodge.

So Fqr hubcaps are on and not moving much further.

Jim

Here's one solution from the Classic Car Forum:

I have experienced the problem you're having on numerous restored cars, although I don't believe it was tied to the type of tires, although with radials you'll be stopping a lot quicker, so perhaps it is the root of the problem. It is a good idea however to address this issue, as I have seen hubcaps that actually snapped off the valve stem.

Generally speaking once a car is restored all of the wheels are freshly painted, giving the hub caps little to bite into to prevent them from turning on the wheels during stopping or acceleration. Often simply bending the hubcap tabs out a little to apply more tension to the wheel does the trick. But when that fails to do the job, here is a quick solution I've used on a few cars that had persistent problems over the years.

Remove the hubcaps and thoroughly clean the areas where the hubcap tabs engage the wheel. Mask off the areas where the tabs engage the wheel in two to four locations spaced out around the wheel. Then apply a 1/16-inch thick layer of clear silicone caulk, carefully remove the masking tape before the silicone dries, and allow it to cure overnight. The silicone will have good adhesion to the wheel and gives the tabs something to bite into. I've used this solution on a few different years and makes, including 50's Mopars, and it has worked every time. Don't hesitate to let us know if it works for you

Another suggestion I recently saw was to clean the rim thoroughly, then line it with duct tape, giving the hub caps tabs something to dig into.

I think this is becoming more common now that people are getting their wheels powder coated as opposed to just painted.

The worst offender was the left front.

I had cleaned the wheel very thoroughly and first tried duct tap, then masking tape, and then that metalized duct tape.

These all failed after a few trips. The paint is gone where the hubcap grips.

I gave up and put the hubcap in the trunk.

I put the metal valve stems in the front two and the hubcaps have turned so the hole is in contact with the stem but otherwise seems stable. The metal valve stem doesn't stick through the hole more than a 1/4 inch which worries me a little. I didn't find longer steel valve stems at the time.

When I got the car a few years ago it had very wide big looking wide white wall tiers, bias ply. These wore badly and the inner and outer tread wore first. The new tires which are Coker wide white wall have a narrower tread and they seem to be not showing wear so far.

I don't have the facility to dismount tubeless tires so I am at the mercy of a local tire shop.

Jim