Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

I also ordered red LED tail light bulbs from LEDLight.com.

The brake light bulb P/N is 68574, tail light P/N is 78747, and dash light bulb is 23694. Pictured below is the new bulb in the speedometer only.

I ordered a flat style V belt from vbeltsupply.com. Should run a little quieter than the ribbed belt I currently have that is past its replacement.

Attach file:

---

  (24.01 KB)

Quote:

Dave, thanks for the input on the vehicle number, and the clarification between VN and VIN, which I incorrectly used. Your explanation of VN accounts for the difference in engine number and vehicle number. It also indicates to me, that at least early in the year, there were a lot of touring sedans produced. That certainly seems to check with the surviving cars.

A bit more done:

1. Finished the floor. Final grind on the weld repair on the battery access, rust converter, and paint.

2. Glued up the floorboard. Two very small strips of plywood are missing; will likely use some wood epoxy to fill in the gap. Still looking for 2 washers, 3 speed nuts, and 4 screws. Have a few irons in the fire there.

3. Tried buffing out the tail light rings. Not much success by hand. I may try to set up my benchtop buffer for these. Good parts to practice on since I know where I can get new ones if I screw them up!

4. I also pulled the transmission cover. I have been having a problem with grinding going into second gear. The syncros looked okay on visual inspection, so maybe I just need to slow down my shifting a little. All good there from my limited inspection.

5. While I was waiting for paint to dry, I checked the king pins. The car has always wandered a bit, and definitely has loose king pins. I have the kit, but I'll have to decide when I want to tackle the job.

6. Waiting on manifolds to come back from the machine shop. Ordered a pair of metallic NOS manifold gaskets. Not much heard on the Remflex gaskets, so I'll probably use NOS for now, and shift to Remflex if they blow out quickly. I'm thinking with properly machined gaskets, NOS should last for a long time.

6. I notice my attempt at adjusting the water pump packing only resulted in a larger puddle. So, a few questions: what size is the packing? Is there a readily available tool for loosening the packing nut? Is it reverse threaded? I tried to loosen it the other day to maybe install some more packing. It seemed like it was moving in the right direction, but also that the water pump shaft was getting tighter?

Attach file:

---

  (39.65 KB)


  (37.23 KB)


  (47.63 KB)


  (45.81 KB)

Hello Ken,
Glad to heart your 1937 120c is progressing well, a word of advice from someone that has learned the hard way when it comes to the manifold gasket.Make sure that the three bolts that hold the two manifolds together are loose(finger tight)when you bolt the manifold onto the bloc. Tighten the bolts on the block first and then the (hot box) three bolts.
Regards Pepe Packard Down Under.

You are using GL1 rated oil in the trans? Higher rated oils are too slippery.

Quote:

Pepe, thanks, and thanks for the tip! I hadn't thought of that, but it kind of makes sense. Did you have issues with leaks at the hot box doing it this way?

Quote:

Ross - yes, 90W GL1 from Napa. Edit: mineral oil plus defoamer. Thanks Dave! Before I changed the oil, I thought I was going to have to rebuild the transmission! Incredible difference.

I adjusted the clutch once, and it needed quite a bit. I may double-check it again to make sure I have the two inches free play the book recommends.

Dug through my parts. I have a king pin kit (good), and I also have a lower outer pin kit. Thoughts on if this is worth doing as well? Service manual is a little silent here, I am assuming a similar reaming is required?

Well, that was an adventure!

I got both spindles off, king pins removed, and ready for new bushings. The driver's side was a huge pain. Some prior "mechanic" welded on the tapered pins. Finally had to pull the suspension link out of a car. I was going to get the pins pressed out, but since I don't have a press, I tried a hammer one more time. The increased oomph I could put into the job on the work bench got the trick done.

I was going to replace the lower outer pivot pins as well, since I've got the kit, and everything already apart, but it looks like the car has been converted to needle bearings instead of a bushing. Anyone ever heard of this?

Please answer if you have or haven't. They seem to be tight, and the manifolds will be done by mid-week, so I'm hoping to get the old girl back on the road.

Well, that was an adventure!

I got both spindles off, king pins removed, and ready for new bushings. The driver's side was a huge pain. Some prior "mechanic" welded on the tapered pins. Finally had to pull the suspension link out of a car. I was going to get the pins pressed out, but since I don't have a press, I tried a hammer one more time. The increased oomph I could put into the job on work bench got the trick done.

I was going to replace the lower outer pivot pins as well, since I've got the kit, and everything already apart, but it looks like the car has been converted to needle bearings instead of a bushing. Anyone ever heard of this?

Please answer if you have or haven't. They seem to be tight, and the manifolds will be done by mid-week, so I'm hoping to get the old girl back on the road.

Attach file:

---

  (26.17 KB)


  (40.74 KB)


  (36.69 KB)


  (45.40 KB)


  (53.79 KB)


  (88.98 KB)

The needle bearings are original style. Most, if not all, of the reproduction/new kits supply a bushing because someone (and I won't mention my name) has bought up all the NOS needle bearings (no longer available from any source I have found, but I haven't had to look in years). The pin will have worn grooves from the needles before the bearings wear out, usually due to not being greased, which is the nice thing about the original needle bearings, as you can see, a grease fitting right on the end...so if your pin moves smoothly, likely no replacement required.