Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

You are correct. The 52 and the dealer sold kits that went into the 51 and 52s had the remote breather. Starting in 53 or maybe late 52 it was built into the unit.

I decided to paint it after all when I found some copper paint so here it is now. Of course, this required disassembly which is why I decided to do it after seeing how difficult masking would be doing it later. The reservoir cover screws and cap are only finger-tight for the photo.

However, I think there may now be a problem that wasn't there before as I noticed that the flange at the end of the cylinder shaft is much farther back (or forward, depending on point of view) than it should be and will never actuate the compensator! Looks like I'll have to take it apart again to see what's wrong but I suspect that the other end of the shaft did not engage into the recess in the vacuum booster assembly. It was in it (I heard it snap in and saw that the flange was where it was supposed to be) but I must have pulled it out without realizing it while positioning the booster piston.

It's difficult to see but the flange is at the top of the compensator hole in this photo.

Attach file:

---

  (249.58 KB)


  (226.28 KB)

On the parts car's old, brittle front seat (actually, that describes me too!) which is out of the car, I am trying to remove the backrest cushion to make it a little bit lighter. I took out the two bolts from the tabs at the lower bottom but something still seems to be holding it at the center! How do it get it out or does it just take brute force?

Also, is there a repair kit available for the Easamatic's manifold valve?

If the seat has a pull down center armrest there are generally bolts on either side of that assy. You pull the arm rest down and push the flexible back upholstery flap aside to get a tool in the separated space that opens between the seat cushion and flap to access them. If no arm rest then best I can remember is the bolts come out and you need to pull out at the bottom and lift up at the same time compressing the padding material at the top of the cushion to release the back from some tabs.

Thank you, Howard. No center armrest and pulling just moves the whole thing as the material is too hard to compress! I guess I'll need to lay it down and stand on it.

After wrestling it from a different angles, it finally submitted to being removed! I'm not sure if it made that much a weight difference but considering how heavy the frame alone is, it's amazing these cars could move at all!

I go run over by a Packard! Well, not really but looking at my shirt that's what it seems. Getting the spare wire wheels up on the tire rack meant rolling them partially up myself as I hefted them up.

Attach file:

---

  (184.99 KB)


  (240.06 KB)

Back finally to the stuck shifter, can the column be removed without removing the gearbox?

Yes, it will slide off the steering shaft. There are a few things that need doing first. I would take note of the width of the gap between column and steering wheel and where the column end is on the collar of the steering box before removing the wheel so you can get the height back in the ballpark when reinstalling. Once the turn signal and quadrant light wiring and shift linkage is disconnected, there is a split ring concave type washer around the shaft that forms the inner race of the upper shaft bearing that also needs to be removed. When removing the inner race take note of the condition of the upper bearing and be careful the balls are in place and captured by the retainer piece that holds them to the outer race. If balls are missing they will probably be at the bottom of the column and can be lost when the column slides up if you don't watch out for them. After the floor plate and the clamps holding the column are loosened and/or removed, it should slide freely but is bulky and a bit heavy

The column can get very near to if not touch the headliner before everything clears. You may need to remove a bolt from the steering box and loosen the others enough so the box and steering shaft can tip down slightly if it actually touches. If the headliner is in good shape and is staying in the car best put a towel or something over the end of the column to keep dirt or grease from staining the headliner. I think the horn contact and wire can stay in the shaft but it might be easier to remove that too if the insulator washer and contact plate sticks over the shaft by much.

Thank you, Howard. I was following the manual shift instructions which seem to be the only ones in the manual but they don't mention the wiper cable. I knew it, though, and disconnected it. The arm limit plate seems to be keeping it from pulling through the opening.

Attach file:

---

  (166.41 KB)