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Could not get both photos in same cell. See previous page for other photo and question.

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I believe the hole at the top will be covered when the lid is on will it not? If so only the holes in the sides of the center pipe will allow flow. Later canisters had the holes sized for the proper amount while the earlier units had a precise hole for the restriction in one of the fittings on the input side. Not sure which version canister that one might be. If you are going to keep the full flow thru the lifters, I think you would want it fairly wide open but you still have the filter causing some restriction -- some brands more than others.

Some cars had problems with the oil filter and low flow or pressure oil feed for 356 hydraulic lifters and others apparently did not. You can look thru the 37-42 portion of the service index, engine section for an idea of the what was done on those that did. Check the hydraulic lifter and oil filter categories for a complete list.

Some issues had to do with the filter canister itself and they actually issued a special canister that would allow flow if the filter clogged. Here are a couple of the more pertinent articles and how the plumbing was finally done to alleviate any flow loss thru filters. Other than visually improving the plumbing lines and fittings, the final version lasted almost unchanged thru 54.

To my mind if yours is one with noise problems it would be better to do the plumbing mod as Packard devised rather than try to continue the compete lifter oil supply thru the filter.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL15NO12.pdf

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL17NO16.pdf

My original block does not have the oil return hole in the lower block, and am hesitant to drill a hole in an original block.
I noticed in the top lid of this canister there is a hole that goes from the center opening to a side hole perhaps for blockage?
Will try to get a picture.
Other wise was thinking of opening up the two holes in the center post?
Yes, my engine developed some tappet noise after warmed up.

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See two photos. Thanks

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The hole I believe is the fail over. So if the filter becomes clogged, then bypasses via that hole.

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Agreed. If the filter has the stamped marking per the bulletin it should be the proper one for the car. I would not think any of the holes needed to be changed.

If the tappets are noisy at idle I would wonder about pressures. It might be interesting to temporarily add a tee and a mechanical gauge. Check the pressure at the bottom port on the filter or block when the engine is hot and idling and then turn it off and change the tee to the top port and see how much pressure is being lost thru the filter. If the starting pressure is good and amount lost is not excessive I would look for other causes.

The early engines had an issue with a valve wearing at the end of the lifter oil gallery. Your engine is one of the early ones because it doesn't have the oil return hole to the crankcase. If it still has the jiggle pin type valve or a stuck second version that might be what is causing your trouble.

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Well, a few thoughts on this. I have measured the oil pump outlet pressure before with a mechanical gauge and it is good both cold and hot, very little change. Have never measured from the oil filter outlet. Perhaps could try.
There was a suggestion from someone here in the forum to drill a hole in the oil filler tube, which is a possibility.
But there is the restriction issue, and as you mention the filter element itself being too restrictive issue.
I have been running without the filter for a bit, and have changed the oil every several hundred miles or so. But, occasionally I see some people here stating that it is best to have some sort of filter to catch the small particles.
So it looks like a tossup as to whether to go back to a filter or just leave it disconnected and looking good on the side of the block. Or?

Found this with my old stuff. Maybe use something like this for an oil filter? Maybe drill a couple small holes in mesh to make sure enough flow?

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I don't think I would drill any holes in a cartridge. You don't know if any of the paper or filter media inside would be loosened or damaged and then start coming out in the oil. Since that flow is entirely to the lifters if a bit of crud got loose and lodged in a lifter you could be in worse shape with one or more making a permanent noise.

The bypass arrangement in your canister should be able to provide an amount of flow needed to keep the lifters pumped under any circumstances. Since it must not be able to do so unless you run totally without a filter I would wonder if your engine might have one of the issues with the bleed valves in the gallery It could be the flow and pressure is finding it easier to bleed off at of those valves rather than keep the lifters full.

I have a 47 clipper 6 but it does not have an oil filter. I also have a 41 clipper 8 cyl that may have a filter. The engine needs to be rebuild on the 41. I will be selling the 41 rather than spend money that I don't really have. But if the 41 has a filter canister would it be possible to put it on the 47 6 cyl? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.