Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Thank you both for writing in.

I am thinking things through. The bore measurements we did (using telescoping bore gauge and a micrometer) I believe were not accurate enough, probably need to obtain better equipment.

What are people's experience taking one of these engines out?

I have about 19" of clearance with the car up on riser ramps. Can I disconnect the Ultramatic without having to drop it?

The last project blog I read on one of these 1951-1954's, the engine and transmission was taken out as a unit, that seems a daunting proposition to me with the weight and length. I have replaced a 4-cylinder Toyota Tacoma engine before, that was a pretty big task in itself.

How many hours do you think it would take a competent shop?

Just as an update, I was able to pull the engine yesterday, and have taken the block (with the camshaft and crankshaft still installed) for evaluation.

I tried to take the engine out without the transmission, but I found that to be practically impossible. I couldn't figure out for the life of me how to reach some of those top bolts. But with the help of 2 friends, a "load-leveler", and a tranmission jack, was able to get the engine+tranmission out. We also had to take off the top radiator splash assembly and the radiator cradle. Could not figure out how to take the grille off without taking off both of the front wheels, which I didn't want to do. But by putting the transmission in a "sling" we were able to lever it up and over.

Someday I'll post some pictures of that operation, but have to get them off my phone.

One question: Since the engine is out I guess among other things one would want to replace the rear main seal? Is there a modern alternative to the rope seal? I've looked on this site but I haven't seen one. Is there a recommendation as to a rope seal source? I keep reading how the "modern rope seals are no good".

You're going to need a gasket set anyway and the seals generally come with it. I get my gaskets, whether individual or sets, from Olson's in Washington as their prices are good and I like to support family-owned and run businesses. Although they make many of their gaskets, the sets are probably FelPro or one of the others.

Another update:

Well, the engine is still at the machine shop, in the backlog. Perhaps a few more weeks before he even starts to look at it.

In the meantime I took the generator, distributor, and starter over to Buchannan Auto Electric in Oakland to get them re-conditioned, since I had them off the car anyhow. They are a well-respected shop used by lots of folks, especially people with old boats and the like.

He says I have problems:

A) The generator "threw off it's solder", looks like it over-heated from over-generating, he says.

B) The starter has a bent armature.

C) The distributor has a bad vacuum advance, it won't hold vacuum.

Now all of these things are a little weird to me, though it never started very easily, the generator did put out juice and I don't remember issues with the vacuum advance, but it's not like I drove the thing super hard, and the issues I had with compression in some cylinders may have overshadowed any issues with the advance.

So I am a bit puzzled. Any advice? I have an extra generator that came with the car, so I am planning on bringing that over as a possible donor/substitute.

I told him about Kanter's , maybe Max would be a source for some of this stuff. Anyone else?

I read in the manual about a relatively involved process for determining whether the regulator was any good, perhaps that's something that should be gone through at the same time?

I was also thinking about the Ultramatic, I was planning on taking the torque converter apart and getting the direct-drive clutch plates relined. I found a guy, Russ Sylvis, in Tehachapi, CA, about 6 hours away from me, that would rebuild the Ultramatic completely for a bit over $1800, so that's an option.

vintagetransmissionrebuilding.com/

Any experience with him? I wrote a few other shops, one in Sacramento and one in Hollister, but have yet to hear back.

The Ultramatic was "working allright", groaning a bit in the transition to direct drive, and I seem to remember a few situations where it didn't want to disengage. It's also leaking from the pan gasket and the rear main seal, though I have a new one for each of those situations that I have yet to install.

On the odometer this car, a 1953 Cavalier, has ~85,000 miles, but who knows it could have rolled over as if I remember it only goes up to 99,999.

I have to say if all the electrics are shot and one is talking some thousands of dollars just for that, it tempts me to go the Bendtsen's/700R4 direction.

Thanks for your time.

"some thousands" to go through those 3 units? Surely you jest?! You could buy another car with working electrics and throw the excess away. It takes about 5 minutes to change a vacuum advance when the dizzy is in hand. If the genny was making sufficient current then put $10 worth of brushes in it and call it a day. If the starter cranked the car adequately clean it lube it and put it back.

Hey Ross,

Thanks. I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff, but maybe the right thing for me to do is to take the stuff back and do it all myself.

I was just surprised at the diagnosis, I figured he'd clean the stuff up and put some new brushes and bushings in them and all would be good for not much $$. I was simply taken aback by the diagnosis, and I guess I lost perspective. It happens, especially these days.

Now that I'm home I now remember what Kanter is charging for rebuilt unit(s) w/exchange, along with the rebuild kits themselves (though I don't know whether that includes a new armature or not, I'll check) so that gives me a baseline to work from.

Thanks again.

Jerome