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Quote:

Not quite. The gear on the pump also drives the distributor so if the distributor is turning, so is the pump.

>The gear on the pump also drives the distributor so if the distributor is turning, so is the pump.

A wise man once said "all generalities are false"

(sorry I just couldn't resist)

With both the original oil pump and the replacement pump we confirmed that the shear pin was intact so yes in this generality that is true...

: ) < ---- Cyber Joke Indicator Icon

In addition to the video, here is a picture of the pipe connection that connects the Float-O Screen assembly to the oil intake port. Not much that can go wrong here...

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So I ordered an oil pan gasket and an oil pump cover gasket.

The plan is to remove the pump cover and turn the engine over and see if the gears are indeed moving. As suggested earlier on this forum I will also pump some oil down the oil port and make sure the gears are wet. The last time I used grease and oil but the suggestion about oil down the port sounds good.

youtube.com/watch?v=Yhb6rDR8xEw


QUESTION: Is the pivot of the Float-O Screen located below the oil level in the oil pan?

I ask because the pivot of the Float-O Screen seems kinda loose. I sent the video to Fred Bruner at Max Merritt and he said that it appears to be similar play as with a used replacement part he would sell me.

So there is some amount of air gap around the fitting and if this thing is supposed to float up and down then there has to be some kind of play in the design. If the pivot is above the oil level then it would always be sucking in air so I presume that the pivot would have to be below the oil level. Does anyone know for sure?

Interesting, and annoying, too, all at once. Best wishes with getting this sorted out soonest.

That picture of a mouse nest is downright disconcerting, especially in light of the number of long stored Packard engines which have been arriving here in the last few months. Makes me wonder if dropping the pans might need to become SOP.

Wondering at fingertip, how hard would it be to convert the floating pick-up to a fixed unit? It seems like something stationary near the bottom of the pan would be more dependable, longterm. Theory being, of course, that since these are now collector engines, they're much less likely to have the dreaded Floating Chunks in the oil, and that they're more likely to have frequent oil changes with top quality stuff.

Or did I just overthink that?

The pivot of the screen is way below the normal oil level.

I wish Ross had a 24/7 phone in Packard Tech support line. Sadly we had already removed the oil pan when he posted and as expected he was correct.

For anyone who has this concern in the future...Here is a picture of the Float-O Screen as installed with the oil pan off and in the picture you can read the dipstick readings and the entire Float-O Screen and its pivot is installed below the level of the oil. This means that even if the cotter pin that connects the pipe to the screen fell out t=and if the pipe also fell out then the open end would still be under the oil level and you would never know the difference.

I removed a connecting rod cap and the bearing was in perfect condition (but mostly dry) so thankfully my dad did not do damage to the engine.

For anyone who wants to inspect their camshaft if the oil pan is removed then every cam lobe is perfectly visible and it was OK.

With the oil pickup tube removed I was able to squirt some oil into the oil pump intake port and then I would use my remote starter switch from under the car and tap the starter to move the crank and then squirt more oil into the pump...repeat. After about 1 pint of oil being shot into the oil pump I was confident it was completely primed and I reinstalled the oil pickup tube, Float-O Screen, and oil pan.

Since the internal parts were wiped dry from lack of oil pressure I was concerned about any more wear so to reduce this chance I temporarily overfilled the crankcase with 5 GALLONS of oil and that brought the oil level up to just below the dipstick hole and I used the starter motor to tap and tap the crank around because I wanted the crank throws and the connecting rod caps to get dipped into the oil and hopefully that oil would seep into the rod bearings. At first I was worried that the oil would splash out of the dipstick tube but after a couple of longish taps it did not occur so I just held the remote starter switch down and allowed the engine to crank over without the spark plugs installed it spun fairly fast and I wanted to do this so as to splash oil up onto the camshaft lobes.

By this time I was getting 30 PSI of oil pressure so I drained the oil and reserviced the oil to the usual 7 quarts oil level and reinstalled the spark plugs. I also installed Cam Guard as a protection from camshaft rusting.

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Good Morning...Congarulations! You have oil pressure again...Do you now know what happened to cause the loss of oil pressure? Ernie in Arizona

>You have oil pressure again...Do you now know what happened to cause the loss of oil pressure?

Nope...nada...

Perhaps the attempt after installing the replacement pump it did not prime...even though the impellors were packed with grease and oil. When we tested it we had all spark plugs off and we still had the oil pressure sender unit removed so there was an open hole so no oil squirting out lead me to believe something bad was going on down below...

Should have done what JWH suggested.

If someone has this issue after a new pump installation I would have someone squirt oil down the open oil pressure sender unit hole while I am using a flywheel tool to move the flywheel BACKWARDS and this should suck the oil backward down through the oil pump...about two flywheel turns backwards should do the trick. You would be able to see the open hole ingesting the oil if the pump is turning