Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Trog writes:
"By the way, is the pedal bracket held on by cotter keys? When the carpet was done at the upholstery shop, there is a hole just large enough for the bracket but not the pedal."

Are u talking about the bracket that connects the pedal to the TV unit OR the brakets on the firewall that hold the entire pedal assembly to the car?????

Don't know whay I couldn't remember, but I used a mirror and found the cotter key.

Typically, you only have to pull the pin that secures the brake pedal to the eye in the pushrod, swing the pedal up and tie it to the I/P to keep it out of the way while removing/installing the power brake unit.

I did, however, encounter a brake pedal that was loose (side-to-side movement) many years ago on one of the '56 Pats. Actually, one of the two pivot brackets was loose, but all I could see was a slit in the carpet and firewall insulator. Engineers must have specified carriage bolts, rather than welded studs, because I couldn't get the bracket to tighten, initially, when I turned the nuts one the engine side of the firewall. I believe I had friend apply some pressure (though I forget just how) to the bolt area, from inside the car as I turned the nuts, and I was able to secure the bracket.

I can't recall clearly (and am not able to get to my cars right now), but I believe the upper pivot shaft is welded to the pedal arm and held in place, side-to-side, by cotter pins, with flat washers, at each end. If you remove cotters, with the lower pivot pin removed. You can shift the pedal from one side to the other and walk the upper pivot shaft out of the two brackets.

Clearly, the carpet and insulator were installed AFTER the brake pedal pivot brackets were installed to the firewall, but BEFORE the brake pedal was installed.

Is this the answer you were looking for?

I've not worked on a 55 but I believe the pedal suspension is quite different 55 and 56. On 56 the pedal pivot shaft has points of attachment at both ends, quite a distance apart. One the left side (driver's door side) the bracket fastens over the ends of bolts that come thru the firewall and thread into welded threaded lugs; it uses the same bolts (ends) used to locate and hold the parking brake cam and ratchet to the engine side of the cowl. If you didn't know this and had occasion to remove the parking brake ratchet assembly, chances are one end of your brake pedal suspension is not fastened to anything and ther are two (maybe 3?) nuts and lock washers rolling around on the carpet or beneath it. NOT a good situation, not only would it add strain to the brake pedal far-side pivot, but it could hamper the action of the pedal.

OK I took a quick look and see how the pedal and piston fasten together, so I'm ok there. Just have to find some time to get into it.

Thanks for all the help guys. I just have not been able to find a time slot to check these brakes out yet. Having to work late weekdays and Saturdays into April and other more pressing issues come up as you know.

Hi I'm working on a 48 packard 8 we were wondering if anybody done a disc brake conversion on one or if ones available any info is helpful thanx

flathead dave, i am currently working on disc brake conversion kits for 48-56 packards. they are not available yet, but i should with any luck have them on the market with in a month or two.

HH56, there are new m/c's available directly from bendix for the t/v. and as for the question of the booster sucking fluid from the resivior. that is not possible. it could suck fluid from the piston bore, but two seals would have to fail to do so. from what i've seen, t/v's built for other oems are a different design. and every one of them i have seen is mounted high.

Dragon. Look at the BTV master cylinder REAR WALL. There is a verticle hole that opens into the reservoir and is subtended by the rear most seal. So it can suck fluid from 2wo different places.

If the rear seal was bad then brakes would fail or become very ineffective. If seal is good but fluid is passing down the seal lube gallery as explained above then the Power unit could suck it in.

Dragon writes:
"HH56, there are new m/c's available directly from bendix for the t/v. "

How do we get one???? Do they supply a rebuild kit???