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On the shift indicator, I have an NOS Gear Start one on the way and I have samples of both the white and the silver color of the standard Ultramatic. All 1953-1954 whether 1954 Gear Start or not were in one of those two colors with the white going back to 1951 on junior models but the 1951-1952 senior models had it in gold.

I am not sure how common NOS versions of any of these are but I am going to have a couple of each made so if anyone needs one, let me know and I’ll quote it once I get the price myself. I am also making one custom for a Packard with a GM transmission.

Have you checked to see if the 51-2 indicator will also be appropriate for the 23rd series models? I think you said you need the GS indicator for your car but am curious how much demand there might be for the others. Not something that usually gets damaged so would wonder with those contemplating a GM install if there might be more demand for GM indicators rather than Ultramatics -- particularly for the V8 cars.

No idea about pre-1951 (I only ever owned one and it was a manual with overdrive) and I don’t even want to go there. Whether there is currently a market is another story but I do know that they fade and even warp in the hot sun. Making them will mean that if someone in the future needs one, they will not need to take so much time searching as I did because the molds will exist!

I had a spare 1954 Patrician ignition switch professionally rebuilt but it does not seem to test that it is in usable condition so I want to double-check that I am doing it correctly. I grew up with electronics and a switch is very basic but perhaps there is something I missed in the design of these.

Here is what I did: I got out my VOM and set it to somewhere in the mid-range of the Ohms, then placed one lead on the BAT terminal. As expected, touching each of the others in turn with the other lead did nothing.

Leaving one lead on the BAT terminal, I then turned the key to the ACC position and measured that terminal where I expected continuity but there was none. I did the same with each terminal in turn, putting the switch into the appropriate position and nothing on any of them.

Any ideas of a better test or thoughts why this failed - ie, is it indeed a bad rebuild?

Your methodology is fine but the switch is for all practical purposes a direct short between the BAT post and the IGN or ACC contacts so you can use the lowest ohm setting on your meter.

Here is the inside of a Packard switch and the contact layout typical of almost all 4 position rotary switches. This one is a 55-6 switch but the 54 is identical except for the mounting method to the bezel. The chart or the red dots I placed over the contacts show the connections in the different switch positions. You should have zero or a very low ohm reading between BAT and the other terminals depending on which switch position you are in. No reading at all to the terminals not shown as having a connection at a particular position.

Notice the damaged START contact on this switch. The actual contact is on the tab coming off the center post and is the melted blob located right next to the ACC contact. The melted area makes the photo look misleading and almost makes you believe there is a connection to ACC. It does not connect. The START contact also has a relatively small surface area compared to the other terminals yet carries a large current load on cars with the pinion shift solenoids. Hence the suggestion of adding a high current relay to bring in the solenoid instead of the signal coming directly off the switch. The burning and melting on the contact and in the corresponding area on the moving contact plate is typical of the damage Packard switches seem to experience.

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Thank you, Howard! That's a very nice graphical view of how it works and is what I was basing my tests on, although having not taken it apart myself, I wasn't sure.

On the Ohm setting, I tried all the way from 1 Ohm to 10k to see if there was anything at all but nothing. I also tried ACC to IGN with it in the run position and nothing there either. My VOM's leads are not in the best condition but touching them together does what is expected so it is not at fault but I'll check it yet again tomorrow.

I guess this brings new meaning to stacking the deck! Maybe closer to stacking the Packards. With the Henney (top) in the previous location at the other door of the shop and a 1965 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special underneath, there was plenty of room but not so with the Patrician. Even with the lift higher due to a new door that gives more clearance, it is still close!

Anyway, clearing out space to get the third quarter of the shop insulated and only a couple 9’ tall racks of parts and some boxes of more parts to move, I made better headway that expected.

Tomorrow will be spent in Bend picking up the freshly rebuilt engine for my 1965 Imperial LeBaron and leaving off the heads (along with a spare set) to get done. The shop is very rural with Bend being the nearest town of any significance about 35 miles away.

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Can someone better at using the search (and who has a better Internet connection) send me a link for removing the ignition switch lock tumbler in my 1954?

Try this.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... opic.php?post_id=199014&keywords=54+ignition+switch+cylinder

It worked like a charm, thank you Howard! I got the replacement switch today and asked that it be sent without the tumbler so had to (or preferred to) put one in for testing. It tests fine while the other showed completely open on all terminals.

The VOM’s probe tips made a perfect removal tool too.