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Started to replace tank old one came out no problem removed fuel gauge sending unit now a problem the sending unit is rusty and stuck . Sure it does not work as float is also missing. Or in the tank along with a lot of rust . Remember reading that a replacement using Ford part anyone have details and if its a direct replacement. The pictures of Ford units I found online are attached with screws not the lock ring of the Packard style tank system

57 Thunderbird should be a direct fit but just in case do compare the arm length of the one you receive with the arm on the stock sender. Here is a thread with several posts on the subject. You might also review the first two posts in the thread where other options are mentioned.

Ford used the same ohm range in their mid to late 50s senders but in different models tank depths and flange mount methods differed. The main difference between a 20 gal sender and a 16 or 17 gallon sender is the length of the arm.

Is it the actual length of the arm or the bends in the arm that give it its range? Just trying to ascertain what I'll need to check for my 1951 Henney-Packard when I put it back together with the newly redone hybrid sender.

On your new sender it could need a combination of both checked because the actual resistance housing, location, and swing arc may be different than the stock sender. Hopefully your vendor had an old sender or tank depth to work with when they built it and everything is already set up.

If you are replacing a sender with the same basic housing shape and the resistance is located in the same plane as the original as is the case with the proper Ford unit, then there is a fixed arc where empty will be at one end stop on the resistance unit and full at the other. The arm length is calculated so when the arm touches the resistance unit end stop at the empty end the float is just above the bottom of the tank and at the other end stop, just below the top of the tank.

The fine height adjustment is typically done by the bend which also accommodates where the arc is positioned if senders are different. Packards sender arc is out to the side with a slight bend but one Ford unit I have is pointing down so the arm has a 90 degree bend to position and extend the float to the side.

The bend can accommodate some difference but not enough if the arm is short and the arc is made and stops are reached before the float does a full travel. If the bend is adjusted say at the empty end so the float is at the botttom and gauge reads empty then If the arm is too short the arm will reach the full end stop too soon -- way before the float is close to the top of the tank so gauge will read full at some lesser amount and stays that way until the tank level drops enough the float can move. Too long an arm, the float will touch the tank top before the resistance arc is complete and end stop is reached so even with a full tank the gauge will read less than full.

Al

My dads was rusty. And so was Pete's Caribbean one

I cleaned them up with phosphoric acid..

Both work..

My dads is on the car. Working.

Edited..

I bought 0 rings from Dennis carpenter.. But they ones I bought I like better.. his are thin.

Mine are 1/8 inch sq.. And 2-1/8 id..

Packard may of used round but could find nothing in parts book

This is Pete's. I did have to solder the ground on my dads and Pete's.

So yes. You may want to go new. I had a ford one and we put that in Pete's last year.

So this is a spare... This unit works same as ford.

70 ohms E.. 10 ohms F..

Edit.

I fixed the sending unit for my 400 same area. Still going 5 plus years later.

I bought the ford in case it gave up..

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Thanks for quick response did a little on line search found Old car parts listed on upon further searching their address is in same city in New Jersey as Kanter went to their site and Kanter list a unit. I ordered the Kanter part. Even if its same I know Kanter is established and trustworthy. My sender was really rusted and had broken spring. If new one is well made when installed with new tank Next set of tank worries will be 66 years from now well past my expected life time

Installed new tank and sender not bad job except for old guy installing slows progress.Progress is slows now that weather is nice grass grows plants need trimmed lot of yard work. Also cruise season is here.
New tank and sender went together with no hang ups sending unit to tank made complete new parts installation. Next step add new gas which may need loan for that. The sender came complete with lock and new gasket seal. Did add ground to tank to chassis for added gauge operation. The lock ring required extra ground connection as on my Clipper (Studebaker style) uses screws to hold gauge in tank easy to add ground with one of attaching screws Was wondering about old tank as it is rusty inside and has leak . First thought is to scrap it as I assume new one will last longer than I will . The old tank was only coated on outside and rusted from inside. Pretty sure it was sealed on out side as entire tank was covered even the top and filler spout Read that coating of both inside and outside was only one method as outside only was cheaper. What is general feeling on future of old tank scrap is my first thought

Have question on the neutral backup light switch is it adjustable can it be repaired or serviced. Should it be replaced . Any guidance would be of help. Have problem with back up lights and starter . Both of which are according to wiring ' Is a need for switch to be grounded in order to work properly. If needs replaced is there a substitute replacement . All my past backup light switches are on trans mission linkage

Am a bit confused because if you are working on the black car shown in the photo in an early post it has PB shift. The PB setup has a relay on the fender panel activated by the P and N buttons for the start interlock and takes power off the R pushbutton for the backup lights.

If it is an actual column shift, as I recall, there is not a lot of adjustment -- just the length of the elongated slots on the bracket so maybe 1/8" in total. Adjustment is sort of a compromise. You place the car in neutral and reverse alternately and move the assy the allowable length of the slots to make both functions work. Sometimes it is a hairs width before one or the other quits.

If the linkage is loose or worn or the detents in the transmission are sloppy due to the pot metal manual lever inside the pan being loose on the shaft then there will be enough play at the shift tube inside the column that works the switch, the detent positions may not consistently line up with the switch positions.