Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I'd check the transmission fluid before driving any further. It doesn't take very many miles with low fluid to do very extensive damage.

12 volt sealed beams are easily obtainable, certainly from the usual Packard vendors but almost with absolute certainly from a good auto parts store.

I'd think that a generator bearing that was just noisy wouldn't cause the electrical problems you have. But if the bearing was noisy to the point of having self-destructed, it would probably also destroy the armature (which probably would not longer turn, being jammed against the field poles). Just drop the belt and give it a couple of good spins with your hand, at that speed it should be almost silent and pretty firm (no play) side-to-side, front-to-back.

Check the fuse labeled instrument cluster for your gauges. If OK, then check the connections. The fuse block terminals are prone to corrosion from just sitting, as are many others. Corrosion or poor connections could well be issues throughout the car..

The bulbs should be available at any auto parts store. Should be a standard 12v, 7inch although the lens pattern may not be same as old.

If the contacts in voltage regulator are bad, symptoms would be varied. If they're pitted and weld closed, the max charge will show and gen will overheat and overload in short order. If they are making poor contact, then charge rate will be non existent or very low even if battery discharged. If gen brushes bad or poor connection, usually same low charge symptom. Owen mentioned the bearings so by all means check them if you have doubts or suspicion.

The noise seems to be speed and motion related. mikec mentioned a few items--also wonder about tires.

It seems the generator spins fine altho the back plate seem to be bent or loose. Needs a new belt as well.

I dropped some oil in the fill holes but am missing one othe rear caps

Tires in back are old, new in front (p235/75r15 105s m+s). Missing the grease cap on passenger side, but noise comes from driver side.

I mentioned before that the steering leaks, but the noise happens wether I'm turning or not.

It does seem to be speed related as far as I can tell.

Edit: gagues work again now. No lights behind inst. cluster, exept highbeam light. I think the fuse must be broken inside.

I noticed that my fuel sender is wired to a bolt by the gas tank like it's grounded. Also noticed thy my fuel gauge reports when key is turned to acc. Will this drain my battery when the car is off?

Alrighty an update on that noise,

I pretty much got rid of the lifter noise with some heavier oil, I forgot to request low detergent oil but, will for sure next time. It still crops up every one in a while but not consistantly.

The other noise I was hearing from the tranny is also gone, with a little added fluid, but every so often it has trouble picking a gear, downshifting that is.

I think I have or had a sticky valve.

My carb was totaled, at least beyond my means to fix. (I.e required tools) So I replaced it with that edlebrock some of you might remember me talking about. I'm retaining the original style carb to have rebuilt and put back on later. I'm almost sure the q-jet wasn't original to my engine but was the correct one.

Is it possible that my vacuum advance or distributor could make odd noise if it needed servicing or replacement? This would be the "angry fan" type noise I was referring to. It comes from behind re firewall in engine bay, but doesn't seem to be coming from the block. Altho I may be wrong.

Also I didn't want to start another thread but maybe I should, it would seen that I am possibly missing teeth on my fly wheel? Sometime I have to shake the car to get the starter to engage. Is that part something I can find through kanyer or maxxmerritt? And how much of a pain is it to replace? I'm almost sure the bendix (if that's what it's called) on my starter is fine, also the solonoid is 2yrs old.

try getting under the hood and bringing the engine RPM up. see if you can find the source of the noise. coupled with the loss of fluid, im thinking its your power steering pump. maybe..

its hard to diagnose a sound you cant hear!

IS there a PARTICULAR speed that the nosie occurs at???

At first I thought it was speed related, but it seems too random after the last couple of drives. The only thing that is consistant with it is that at stop or idle, it goes away completly.

It also doesn't want to replicate it reving the engine up either.

It's definatly coming from the engine bay, when in the car it sounds like it's on drivers side, behind the firewall.

And I would describe it as a slight grinding noise, similar to a fan that is vibrating. "angrily" as I said earlier.

Goes away completely at a stop? Are you sure it's not the speedometer or speedometer cable? Just unscrew it at the back of the dash and go around the block - you'll know soon enough.

Power steering slave seal:
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts/searchform.php?PartDesc=seal

Fairly ez to replace. Note that the original seal may have been installed backwards. Check the STB's or SC's for reference to the backward original seal.

I replaced the seal in my 56 Executive. It still leaks just a little but not as bad as it was.


As for the enginee noise follow all of the advice of those posting above first.

Noise at the left side of the engine and unpredictible indicates the infamous lifter clatter problem. BUT u describe it as a growling noise which throws me. Lifter should be a clicking sound.

THe T-Ultra in my 56 Exec makes a very LOW SPEED growling sound that comes directly from the front of the transmission area inside of the car. But once it gets warmed up or in warm weather the growling sound goes away.

"While driving in what I'm assuming was (D) Drive I I started hearing a little click click click on every stroke"

Probably a lifter, could be sticky because of sitting around. If this is the case, it should cure itself by the time the engine warms up. Or, you could add some Rislone or Bardahl (says frees sticky lifters on the can).

Hope it's not a weak oil pump. But it could be. There are lots of posts on this if you search.

"Also while driving I heard starting today what sounds like an angry heater blower, but was coming from under the dash or in engine bay. Heater blower was off."

Was the speedo needle jumpy? Your speedo cable needs to be greased every 30 or 40 years. Unscrew it off the tranny, pull out the cable, wipe it clean with a rag, coat it with speedo grease and put it back in. You can buy a little tube of speedo grease at a parts store for $1.79 and it will last you about 100 years. Do not grease the top 6" or 1 foot of the cable, you do not want the grease to work its way into the speedo.

"Where should your needle generally read, (for generator) on the dash cluster? Mine seems to flip out sometimes."

When the starter is turning it should read discharge, when you rev the engine it should go to charge, as you drive along the needle should slowly come down. After 5 or 10 miles it should ride just above the neutral point. If it jumps around the voltage regulator is sticking.

"What tranny fluid should I use for the PB Ultramtric? (Sorry I know this has been asked multiple times now)"

Others have said that B&M brand fluid, used in racing transmissions, is best and will even cure "iffy" transmissions by cleaning out sludge and dirt, and rejuvinating the bands and plates.

And where do I fill it?
Any additives I should use?
Can I trust a shop to fill my trans for the first time in a while?

"What should my oil gauge read (typically)?
I'm doing an oil change soon with a fresh filter, what type/weight/additives do I need?"

10 or 15 lbs at idle, hot, and 30 to 40 @30MPH or more I would guess to be the minimum for a healthy engine. Not exactly sure if this applies to Packards but is a general rule.

"What's the name of the additive for unleaded gas, or should I just use premium?"

What is your compression ratio? Your octane should look like the compression ratio. A 1955 with 8.1:1 or 8.5:1 compression can use regular. A 1955 352 with 9.5:1 can use hi test. A 1956 374 Executive, Patrician or Caribbean with 10:1 may need an octane boosting additive.

To preserve your valves a little Redex, Bardahl or similar upper cylinder oil is good insurance. But for normal driving, the danger of valve seat recession is way overblown.