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All I could think about today at work, was getting home and finishing the fuel line and install the heater box that is under the hood. Had a time with the heater box and snaking the one hose through the box to the firewall manifold. My hands were not meant to bend that way. Added gas to the tank and the pump had no difficulty pulling it from the tank, I was so focused on the gas, I failed to note that the ceramic resistor was smoking. Apparently placing it horizontal allowed the newly installed heater box to ground out one side. Turned it 90 degrees and the engine fired right up and quickly let me know the radiator has more in common with a colander than I like. Need to have it fixed or replace; plus, will need another ceramic resistor (cracked). But she sounds great and it came off fast idle and sounded even better. At first, I was concerned because the exhaust flow was not even between the two sides then I remembered the restrictor plate on the driver’s side. After a minute, it opened and both exhausts were even with outgoing pressure. Still no instruments, think it is a fuse block issue, but that is for another day.

I confirmed the severe coolant leak at the back end of the left cylinder head and believe it to be a temp sending unit that has gone bad. Looking through the manual, I have not found the specifications of the probe. I did however, locate a thread in the forum discussing the NAPA ECH TS6464. I have a 6.1L V8, is this the correct part?

Re: 56 Packard 400 water temp sending unit [V-8 (1955-56)] - Packard Motor Car Information (packardinfo.com)

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That sender will work for 55-6 as the resistance in the sender was the same from 51 on. Here is specs from the old Napa website before Napa stopped providing most details on their items.

Some years back another poster ran some tests using a 52 gauge as the readout. Not sure exactly how those spots will correlate to positions on the 55-6 gauge but the resistance reading should be the same at the various temps.

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I noticed there is a plate that support the accelerator linkage and a threaded opening for the temperature sending unit. This plate is secured to the rear on the left head, by two bolts. The top bolt was loose allowing the coolant to flow out. Still going to replace the sending unit. My radiator on the other hand is not being so kind. A local shop that specializes in classic cars has had it for two weeks now. He was trying to find a replacement core; but now, is looking for a close replacement for the radiator itself. The original one is in bad shape and cannot be repaired. Has anyone found an aftermarket radiator that is a good replacement?

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Am surprised your radiator guy cannot find a core to fit as other shops have been able to do it -- although a new core is definitely not a low budget repair.

Problem with other mfgs radiators is nothing else found so far is a direct drop in fit. Usual issue is the hose locations and mounting to the cradle other mfgs used are all different. In order to use another brand either a new mounting arrangement needs to be made and on most you need to figure on some kind of hose rerouting.

Having said that, some have managed to make a Ford Bronco radiator work by changing one or both of the above. Start with this most recent thread and also check out the other packardinfo links within those posts to older threads about the same issue. There is a link to the Bronco radiator as well.

There are other radiators mentioned in the older threads that some have tried and I believe there are even photos of some of the mounts made in a couple of the older threads. Not all the photos may show on the older posts since the server upgrade a couple of years ago messed up the links to many of them. If they are gone I have photos of a couple -- but not all -- of the mounts.

Flackmaster sent me a set of hubcaps and they polished up quite nice. At first, I was not sure if I would like them; but I must confess they look great. It took a second to put her fender skirts on. It’s really ingenious how the bolt for the fender skirt is the same size as the lug nuts. This is the first car that I have own with fender skirts. They certainly tie in the bottom chrome. I cannot wait to drive her.

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What did you use for tires? They look like they are brand new?

I lucked out and met a person a few cities over on Craigslist who had a set for a hot rod that was never realized. He sold me the set for $400. Worth the trip. They were bought from Coker Tire.

cokertire.com/tires/p225-75r15-coker-classic-2-3-4-whitewall.html

I finally received an estimate from a local shop. It has been a while since I have had a radiator repaired. I am rather ignorant with regards to the cost. Is this reasonable?

Labor Time:Repair Adapt and customize radiator to be a direct fit to 56 Packard Patrician, to include welding on new mounting tabs.
$250.00
Part Summit Racing™ Performance Fit Aluminum Radiators Radiator, Performance Fit, 3-Row, Aluminum, Polished, Ford, Truck, SUM-384038 1
$309.99
Welding welding and supplies 1 50.00
Metal Flat Stock, Aluminum, 1 in. Width, 3/16 in. Thick, 4 ft. Length
$17.99
Rags, Brake Clean, Oil disposal, Oil dry, Cleaners, Paper towels, Grease, Ect.
$20.00
Packard Patrician 6.1 liter V8
Subtotal 647.98
Tax 23.88

TOTAL $671.86

I decided to buy a new aluminum radiator for a 1956 F-100, from Summit Racing. Very happy when it arrived and had great plans for the holiday weekend. Purchased high temp paint to blacken out the areas visible, cut a radiator hose into ¾” diameter rubber washers for insulators, and cut ¼” long segments of brake line for spacers. Thought it would be simple. Made custom brackets out of aluminum. Ended up taking the radiator in and out nine times. First road bump was the lower radiator outlet was very close to the outlet of the transmission cooler and 3” off center. Finally had to give up; because the bend was too severe. So, in my infinite wisdom I choose to utilize the transmission cooler that is built into the new radiator and plumb the coolant lines to the new radiator. Getting a pipe bender in there and being able to straighten / bend the coolant lines was fun. Then to locate a new 1.75 ID radiator hose for my setup. I used #6 copper grounded wire (I am an electrician) to mocked it up to the shape required and went to the store. Tried to install the radiator with the fan already installed, but the fittings were not allowing it and it was easier to connect the hose and coolant lines without the fan. Got it all back together, spun the fan before I tighten the generator belt to check for clearances and free spinning. All was great! Filled it full of water, and started.
In the many in and outs, mocking things up and test fitting, I forgot one thing at the end. Just a minor thing really. I did not install the lower bolts of the bracket for the radiator. The fan did what it does so well, it sucked air in and the radiator. This lesson only required 3 seconds. I immediately closed the hood to the Packard and walked away. Even the cat left me alone for three hours. Now seeing the photo, I just took, I noted that I bent my fan as well. I am not sure what kind of advice I can give, but I now know how to ruin a brand-new radiator.

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