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Could see how one but odd both motors would be toast. Wonder if they did like so many others and tested them out by putting voltage to both leads. Modern places used to PM motors think a change in direction would just need to reverse wires instead of the Packard way of powering only one lead and case ground per direction.

I'll ask those questions tomorrow when I pick up the motors.

I have found a lot of "toast" in this car over the years. I believe the previous owner hooked up a battery with negative ground and walked away for a time.

That would really wouldn't kill anything. Hardy anything is polarity specific. There are probably more 55s with "flipped" batteries then without.

Usually an amp reading backwards is the clue, unless they swapped the wires there as well.

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Nothing in a stock Packard would have been damaged with the battery connected backwards. Motors still work properly because unlike PM motors, the field coil types Packard used are connected internally to maintain the same magnetic relationship to rotate the proper direction no matter the polarity. Worst would be the amp meter reads backwards and generator might not charge or the spark might be a little weak because it was jumping from the colder shell to the hot center electrode instead of the other way around.

I concede that point. The "electricals" are not my strong point but, the fact remains there have been several burnt parts on this car.

-2 two windows motors (have not inspected the other 2)
-switch/regulator for the T/L
-wire harness near the starter
-fan motor

The starter, the generator & T/L motor wall tested good.

It was a fun day today but I had to add a nice thick layer of stupidity on top of it.

I loaded up all the old brittle, dirty, interior parts and hauled them to the interior guy.

At least, I thought I loaded it all up. When I got back to my shop later in the day I found the complete back seat sitting right where I left it.

The interior shop is going to spend a couple of days inspecting everything and we will discuss it later. I'll take the back seat to him then.

I may have to replace the front seat springs. There was a good deal of rust on that piece. That should be easy, right.

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I don't know about easy, but I'd expect rusty springs to break in service.

Even non rusted springs can be sagged or weak, and that can make a nice looking redone seat uncomfortable.

I get that but what alternative do I have?

Can the spring be removed and replaced with modern foam? The thick stuff?

I believe the coil springs are individual and held onto a heavy wire support structure by wire clips or hog rings. If you can get a decent height and wire gauge match most springs of that type can be replaced. Your upholstery guy could do it or if you wanted to save a buck or two you could probably do it too.

Many upholstery supply stores carry various types of springs and you might do a search for upholstery supply firms. In the meantime here is a place that offers coil springs. There are other places that will custom make springs if readily available stock springs can not be shortened to size or otherwise will not work.

This is one of the front, power window regulators. This one has not been cleaned up yet but the other has.
I have been testing the clean one, with the motor, for a little while now.

It sticks as the coil adds tension. The motor is NOT the problem. There is no problem when the spring unwinds. My only guess is that the spring has some rusty grit and it is not moving smoothly so it gets stuck. I did not take it off and blast it as I am not sure how to get it back on.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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