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1937 120 Front Motor Mount
#1
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TxGoat
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It looks as if it will be necessary to remove or loosen the front motor mount support in order to replace the front engine mount rubber inserts. It appears to be secured to the frame with two large bolts. Do these bolts screw into a caged or fixed nut, or does it take two people to remove them, one to hold the nut and one to turn the bolt?

Also, has anyone tried replacing the hex head water pump bolt that interferes with the front motor mount with an allen socket head bolt or one of those (12 point?) bolts that are often used to secure headers?

Posted on: 2023/9/6 15:07
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Re: 1937 120 Front Motor Mount
#2
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bullsh--ter
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Its been 2 years since I done mine. Icant remember if there were caged nuts but I dont think so. Either way I had no trouble doing them by myself.

Posted on: 2023/9/6 16:28
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Re: 1937 120 Front Motor Mount
#3
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tsherry
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On my 115, the bolts pass through the mount, frame, and then to non-caged nuts on the underside. They came off remarkably easily when I pulled my engine. I used a combination wrench on the underside, which when jammed up against the frame, worked great with a ratchet from above.

Haven't tried the water pump bolt.

Posted on: 2023/9/6 22:29
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Re: 1937 120 Front Motor Mount
#4
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TxGoat
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Thanks. It should be no problem, since the car is rust free.

Posted on: 2023/9/7 8:31
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Re: 1937 120 Front Motor Mount
#5
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JWL
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Your idea to use an Allen Head bolt sounds promising. Let us know how it works out.

Posted on: 2023/9/7 11:08
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And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: 1937 120 Front Motor Mount
#6
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TxGoat
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I went ahead with the standard bolts, since the engine was already jacked up. I did try an Allen socket head bolt, and it would indeed work well, as long as the washer didn't interfere. I had only one Allen bolt, and it was too long. I'm going to put all Allen head bolts on the water pump if I ever have to remove it again. Another advantage of the Allen style bolt is that you could use a ratchet on all the bolts. A socket or box end won't fit on a couple of the stock bolts due to lack of clearance with the pump casting. I assembled the fan and pulley and bolts to the pump, then applied gasket sealer and used a large rubber band to retain the bolts and gasket to the pump while I slipped the assembly into place. That worked well, and I cut the rubber band and pulled it out before tightening the pump to the block. If you put the fan and pulley on the pump before mounting the pump, be sure you have the bolts in place in the pump. One or two of them won't insert with the pulley in place. It's best to have the fan belt draped over the pulley, too. I got it past the gap between the fan hub bolts and the radiator after mounting the pump/fan assembly, but it was difficult.

Posted on: 2023/9/7 14:37
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