Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Hello Roger,
For your information the compatible voltage regulators and specifications of them is listed in the green copy of Keep em rolling Motor Manual. Page 128 lists VRD 4002 A is the same in specs and physical size.
It also has diagrams of the correct wiring, I can send you a copy if you wish, I also have a VRP 4401 A regulator a VRP4002 E that have similar specs.
Regards Pepe.

Thanks. That is where I'm going next. I run a small business here in Whitewright, TX and have not been able to spend a lot of time trying to analyze the issue further. After looking at the schematics and what is connected and what is not, it very may be possible that the draw is caused by something else. I should have time this week-end to be able to spend a couple of contiguous hours trying to see what else it might be.
Again, thanks for all of your input.

Hi, Pepe. Yes, I would love a copy of that manual if possible. Or, failing that, if you would tell me which version contains this information, I'll just order one from the internet. Here is what I have thus far:
On the picture, of my VRR-4005A regulator, I have labeled the terminals with what I believe to be the correct connections. On the upper right labeled "B" is the battery connection. Across from it labeled "A" is the line from the generator armature. Just below that labeled "F" is the line from the generator field terminal and the bottom where the regulator is attached to the body I have labeled "G" for the line connecting the generator ground.
Today, I removed the regulator and battery from my car and performed these tests. First, I connected the negative side of the battery to the "B" terminal and then testing the voltage between the "G" point and the positive side of the battery. I showed 6.2 volts through that circuit. I then connected the negative side of the battery to the "A" terminal and tested the voltage between the "G" point and the positive side of the battery. I received the same reading of 6.2 volts. I then connected the negative side of my battery to the "F" terminal and tested the voltage between the "G" point and the positive side of the battery and did not see any voltage. When connecting to the "G" point, I just inserted an alligator clip into the hole and insured that it was not touching anything else. These tests were performed on my workbench away from my car.
I firmly believe that this is the point of my current draw. Could this be a symptom of a damaged voltage regulator or one that has not been properly polarized?? Or, could this possibly be the incorrect regulator for my '37 120C?
Yes, if it would be possible for you to send me a copy of the Keep 'em Rolling Motor Manual, I would greatly appreciate it. Right now, based on these tests, I am at a standstill. If I connect everything as it should be, I'm afraid that the current draw would be too much prior to me attempting to polarize the regulator before something burns up.
Again, to all of you, I do appreciate your input and help in this.

Attach file:

---

  VRR-4005A Voltage Regulator.jpeg (2,146.49 KB)

Thanks, Pepe. I did find a green copy of Motor's Keep em Running manual and have ordered it. I'm also looking at the VRD-4002A regulators. I'll send an update once I determine the next steps.
Thanks, again.

Hello Roger,
Firstly Happy New Year, may all of your problems be little ones as the Irish say. Well done on finding a copy of Keep em Rollin Motor manual, it is a great source of information for our pre war era cars. Let me know if I can be of further assistance with any information or parts.
Regards Fred.

Thanks, Fred and a Happy New Year to you, too. There is one thing you can do when you have time and that is to test your VRP-4002E regulator in the following manner. 1) attach the positive pole of your 6V battery to the terminal labeled Battery on the regulator, 2) using a voltmeter, touch the ground terminal on the regulator with the voltmeter positive lead and the voltmeter negative lead to the positive pole of the battery and see if there is a current draw. If there is, then that would mean, to me that is, that there is a direct connection between the terminal that leads to the battery and ground, which I don't think should be. If there is no current flow, then I would like to know how much you would want for that VRP-4002E regulator.
Thanks again for the wishes. Take care.

Quote:

Am not following what you are trying to do. Isn't the 37 positive ground and with the service manual saying reverse polarity can damage the Auto lite regulator are you sure this is where you want to connect the positive battery terminal? With the regulator just sitting there should be no connection thru the cut out contact so probably no damage but just asking.

Hi, yes. Packard is positive ground. In my testing I attached the negative pole of the battery to the battery terminal of the regulator, labeled B in the picture, and then touched the positive post of my voltmeter to the positive post of the battery and the negative post of my voltmeter to the connection labeled G in my picture. I get voltage through that path which tells me that there is some connection between this battery terminal, B, and the frame of the voltage regulator. Now, I have another VRR-4005A regulator that has not touched the car but I get the same results when performing this same test. That is what is causing this current draw and when I have everything hooked up is causing a spark when I attach the ground line attached to the frame of the car to the battery. I have not been able to locate any information as to whether this regulator is supposed to act in this way or not, so I'm assuming that it is not supposed to allow current to flow from the output line to the battery, negative pole, directly to ground. I do not wish to try to polarize the regulator with it performing in this manner for fear of burning something up. I do have documentation coming my way that might give me the specs on a different regulator that match the VRD-4005A that was originally on the car, but which I cannot seem to locate anywhere at this time. I have contacted Mike at Tuscon Packard to see if he an track down one for me but as of yet there has been no response. The other Packard parts stores do not list any compatible regulators in stock. If anyone has any other ideas on leads, then I would be more than happy to entertain them. As per usual, I do so appreciate any information and input you might be able to give me. Thanks.

The terminal designations that you have shown in your illustration are incorrect.
The terminal that you show as B is actually the field terminal and a connection between this terminal and ground is to be expected.
The terminal that you show as F is actually the battery terminal and should not have any connection to ground.

Thanks ever so much. That does answer that question because whenever I do put the negative battery post onto F and then place my voltmeter on G across to the positive post, I get no draw. I did not have the schematic that might have shown me this. I will definitely keep this in my notes and now I can go ahead, put the wiring back in place and try to get my engine fired up. Since you did not mention the A terminal, I assume that is correct being the generator armature input.
This information has been immeasurable and I thank you for providing it.
For Fred, my copy of Motors Manual should arrive by Wednesday.
Again, my great thanks to you all for your expertise.