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Trunk and glovebox should match. Don't rekey the doors.

Yes, I know about the keys.

The ignition key that I have did not fit the doors and the glove box key did not fit the trunk.
All should be good now. I'll let you know.

I asked this a few nights ago but never got a response.

How much power do the power seat motors require?

I wired them up over the weekend using the original relays as shown in the image but it overheated the motors real-quick.

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Apparently no one has measured the actual current draw but they use the same 40 amp circuit breaker as the window motors. The circuit breaker is sized fairly large at 40 amps so if more than one window is operated at a time it will hold. The seat motors are constructed and wired the same way as the original window motors with the case getting ground and only one wire at a time getting power.

The only relay involved is the power relay operated by the ign switch. That relay is there to provide power to the windows and seat only when the key is in an on position. The seat motor should not be drawing any more current than the stock window motor. If I had to hazard a wild guess I would say maybe around 8-10 amps when seat is freely moving and maybe 15 under load and 20-25 when the motor is stalled. It might even be a bit less.

How do you know it overheated the motors? If the motors are getting too hot then there is either something wrong with them or the seat is binding. The actual amount of current they are drawing isn't particularly relevant except as a point of comparison.

I assume they are like the power antenna motor in that it's a brushed motor with two fields? You may want to check that the commutator isn't shorted. Honestly not super sure. I would personally suspect the seat is just binding somehow.

“Overheated” may have been a poor choice of words although, we did see a little smoke.

The manual states that the seat motors have a built-in breaker that will trip if they get hot so I pulled “overheated” from that.

I had the motors checked out by a local, motor repair company last summer. I wrote about it here in my blog. So, I believe the two motors be in good working order.

I am just trying to piece this issue together. As stated here several time, The electrical (especially these motors) are not my super power.

The motors turned maybe 1 revolution before it stopped.

I will try to figure out if there is a binding issue.

Worked on the power seat some today.
My Painless wire harness has a few spare circuits and one of them is 30 amp for an A/C.

I pulled the motors off and tested them using that circuit and they worked fine.

I tried turning the seat movements manually with the motors off and the backward movement was pretty tight.

It may be binding where it is circled in the first image. Not sure how to fix that. I am hoping the seat frame is just a little too far forward or backward on one side.

The second image shows the shaft and how far I still have to go to move the seat backwards.

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I believe I have the power seats figured out.
There were two problems.

The first was the mounting bolts on one of the motors were too tight. The shaft would not turn at all.
Once I loosened it a little I had movement.

The second problem was, like an idiot, I painted most of the parts of the frame and messed up the ground.
So I have to clean the paint off in a few places.

Question,

What holds the lower part of the stainless trim that goes around the headlights?
I know there is a hole at the top and there is a small clip that holds the 2 pieces together but is there anything holding the lower part to the fender?

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Not 100% sure what you mean by lower part. The shroud just clips into behind the grille and screws in with 1 screw up top. But your clip is broken (common issue).

This image shows the shroud removed and the headlight screws removed.

The two oblong holes are for studs in the grille (not shown in my image).

I attached an image of what the clips are supposed to look like.
ebay.com/itm/375065113941

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