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There should be a hole of some sort in the manifold through which a tube is pressed. The tube from the choke sets into it, pulling through fresh that has been heated by the manifold. With it connected properly and the engine completely cold, the choke should just stay lightly closed when flipping it by hand a couple time and as the engine warms up, it should open until it is in the vertical position. Some people like to set it hot with it just vertical but I prefer to do it cold as I already described. I don't know how close a 1940 110 manifold is but I can go take a look at one later if it will help.

You can easily make your own choke tube by picking up a pre-made length of brake line from Napa. They are easy to bend by hand and create the shape you want. Measure it out, then cut it to fit. The plain tube end gets pushed into the hole in the exhaust manifold. The threaded nut attaches to the choke assembly. That's it.

-Kevin

Don and Kevin,
Thanks for the info on how the choke is supposed to properly operate, and how to make a heat tube. I have experience and tools for making brake lines, so it should be possible to make one for this purpose.

I had a look at a 1940 110 manifold and if yours is similar, you can look for the heat riser hole as indicated by the arrows but note that there is a plate that is supposed to cover one opening that is not installed on these photos. You’ll need to be sure that yours is intact. 1939 may be somewhat different but the same idea.

Brake line itself will work but the heat-riser does not use the same flare fitting. Instead it has a compression fitting,

Don,
Thanks for the photos and the thoughts on using brake line. Shopped three auto parts stores today and ordered a Dorman choke heat tube kit that might work. No specs on tube diameter etc, but there is hope.

The Dorman kit will probably work. Keep the tube short. Many installations had an insulating sleeve around the tube. Anything used there must be made of high heat, non combustible material.

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Steel tubing is sized by outside diameter and the choke tube size is 1/4" with a brass compression fitting at the carburetor end. The other end will slide inside the tube on the manifold.

This video was a big help when I swapped out my Chandler Groves carb for a replacement Carter on my '37 115C. It goes into the heat riser tube that had to be made to make it work the way it is supposed to.

youtube.com/watch?v=ApxcLu5SGs0&list=FLwWFaXB2-WXMw0xntGF-Rxw&index=26&t=330s