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I had a long conversation with Karl in Hanover (1924 sport 136), and this is not going to be an easy "open and close" fix if I want to do it right. If I want to save this top, it would basically mean removing the whole top, sewing in some fabric to the rear most ~2 inches of the top as a re-enforcement, putting in a new tack strip, and then re-assembling. This all assumes that I can remove the top without tearing anything.....This is not a job to take lightly.
I did look here, and new tops are a god chunk of change, but not a rediculous amount of money if the quality is right.
top guys
It seems that the rear tack strip is wood from what I can see.
I'll attach a few pictures of what I uncovered so far.
-As you can imagine from Karl's work on his 124, he explained me what would be needed to do a very good job... he sets the bar very high!

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I did a little bit of driving and some adjusting of the voltage regulator and am pretty happy with about 7.4 volts. The headlights are still pretty weak though. Last year I had a problem that the circuit breaker blinked a few times after a long run at night, and so I replaced that. At the time we discussed cleaning the switch and all contact points, and also the option of adding relays. -as usual, I still haven't done either I did however just measure the voltage drop from the battery to the headlight terminal at the junction block by the battery... There was a voltage drop of about 1.5 volts!! no wonder the lights are dim....
I am now newly motivated to give the headlight circuit a thorough cleaning of the switches and terminals. It will be interesting to see where the resistance is getting into the circuit.

I was in Pittsburgh last week and picked up some parts. Also got to meet HPH from the forum!
I got a grille crest that has some red color in it, so on that went. The car looks much more regal now. I also installed a new dimmer switch to remove some resistance from the headlight circuit. Next up is cleaning the main headlight switch...

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I was in Pittsburgh visiting my uncle, and helping him fix his current fleet of SVO, SHO Fords and a Karmann Ghia. One evening over a few Hamms beers, I got some history of the Caribbean and a few old pictures. Here is the Caribbean when Dale Kendall still owned it at the 1972 National Meet in Wichita Kansas.

At the time it had a black top on it. The original was white, but that material is no longer available, hence the beige top on it now....
Here are also two pictures from 1980-something in Boston? My uncles blew a head gasket pulling into the parking lot of the national meet that year. It was fixed in the parking lot f the hotel. I'm sure the management loved that! They got the "Hard luck award" that year.
Top left is Michael Barbush. Top right is Danny Barbush. I don't know the others in the pic.

PS, if anybody is also into Ford Taurus SHO vehicles (late 1990s), I know of a basement full of spare parts. -going cheap!

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Today some headlingt junction blocks came in the mail from Dwight Heinmueller. They went right in and look very correct. I also took the time to use a wire brush with my drill to clean all the connections for headlights and hopefully get some more voltage to make light and not have to go through resistance in the various points of the wiring harness. Servicing the main headlight switch is something I am not really looking forward to becasue it is under the dash, but soon I will do that too.

Before and after shots attached.

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Well, it's been a month and a half since the last post....I had replaced those headlight junction blocks, put in a new dimmer switch, and today I recieved a cleaned up headlight switch from Ross. In that went, and my headlights are working again, and brighter than ever.
After replacing the switches, and cleaning all the terminals with a wire brush, I have reduced the voltage drop of the wiring from 1.5 volts to down to 0.3 volts! The headlights are noticibly brighter now that they are recieving more voltage, and the dashboard light dimmer actually works (wow)
The headlight switch that I took off was in pretty bad shape. The fiber board that holds the contacts had heated up (darker brown) and was actually warped away from the metal housing. I figured it was time for a new switch. Since I have the H4 headlight bulbs which pull quite a bit more wattage than the original bulbs, I will finally get around to putting in relays. (I have Howard's diagram and still have to order all the small parts) Between the battery and the fender is enough space to tuck in the two relays, circuit breaker and wiring. Then it will be pretty much unseen.

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On the night before Christmass I was stirring with the Caribbean. The weather was dry, so I took a ride and tried out my improved headlights.
Things have gone from "dangerously dim" to prett, darn good.
I know pictures are not scientific, but the Hella headlights with H4 bulbs and properly serviced wires and switches provide ample light. Low beams are kind of low, but highs are bright and well focused.
Relay parts are in the Mail.. Merry Christmass all!

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Only other thing you can do is use a relay to bypass all the headlight current from being drawn through the light switch. This gives you brighter headlights, and reduces the wear and tear on the 70+ year old light switch.

With two relays you can also reduce all the current on the dimmer switch.

That is my plan Kevin. Relays will go in soon. I'm waiting for some cloth covered wire and connectors etc, so I can wire something up that doesnt Stick out like a sore thumb. Behind the battery is room for the relays to be mostly hidden.

The weather is reasonbly clear so I went for a 35 mile drive cruising on the autobahn, filled up and with 185 miles on a tank of gas I calcualte an average 13.3 miles per gallon in the carib.....still reasonable for fuel mileage. Two things were bothering me while driving. One thing is easy. I was getting a draft on my feet, so I took out the flapper and am making a new rubber to seal that. No big deal.
The second thing has been bothering me for a while. This car has always had noisy belts. Like a squeaking or a scraping noise. Last winter (or the year before that?!) I re-did the bearing in the power steering pump because I thought that was the culprit. Now I think it might actually be a dent or out of round spot on a pulley that makes the noise when the belt passes the dented spot. When I put on a new belt the sound actually got a little bit worse. I made a little video.
YouTubeVideo
Anybody ever have something like this before? I have a spare water pump double pulley, but it also has a dent. Geez, did the dents come from the factory? I may try and source a nice round double pulley and see if that helps..I guess I should pull one belt first and try and localize the noise to water pump pulley, generator pulley or the power steering pulley.... I got one thumbs up from people driving by on the Autobahn, which gave me a smile.
Cheers all.

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