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See also: Details of 475115 Heater Assembly

The assembly is held together with ten #10 x 3/8" pointed self tapping pan head screws. The motor ground connector is 9/32" ID, 9/16" OD. The power connector is a male Wade connector. The motor is held together and then attached to the case with two 2-3/4" #8 carriage bolts, each having in order: a 3/32" x 5/8" OD stiff rubber washer, a nut, (case), a second identical washer, an external tooth lock washer, and a second nut. The nuts are 11/32" drive. The fan blade set screw is 1/4" dia. x 3/8" lg., cup point (the head has two flats, like a Trico screw). The inside of the case is flocked with a (0.045") thick insulating material, somewhat like the spray inside the doors, but thinner. I don't have a recommendation on replacement material, so suggestions are welcome.





To disassemble the motor, first disassemble the above mounting hardware (carriage bolts can stay in for now). Be careful during the process to not bend any fan blades nor disturb any balancing weights. The fan blade is generally seized onto the shaft and cannot be removed without damaging the motor, so we will use an alternate method.

One way is to drill pinholes in the "humps" at both sides of the shafts and drip oil in. But we can avoid drilling holes in the case, using the following method. This also allows you to easily replace the wiring if needed.

Drill out the 4 brass rivets on the bottom side of the motor, being careful to not enlarge the holes. (Note also in this photo the two unsalvageable rubber washers stuck to the nuts.)



Rock the back case side to side to get it loose, then remove it. Tilt the square piece at an angle so that it clears the stator, as you lift out the stator.



If the wires need to be replaced, now is the time. The ground is off-black cloth and the hot is off-white cloth. Otherwise, hold the assembly at an angle and drip several drops of 3-in-1 oil between the Bakelite board and the case, in the best gap to reach the front bushing. I do not recommend to remove the Bakelite board, which is riveted on. Thoroughly clean and lubricate the bronze bushing and felt at the rear of the motor, as well as the square piece and inside rear of the case.



To reattach the square piece, first thread some thin bare copper stranded wire through two diagonal holes in it, then two corresponding holes in the case. You can get this wire simply by stripping some extra stranded wire you have lying around, and taking a few strands, and twisting them together.



Pull the wire taught and twist it. This will cinch up the square piece to the case and align it.



Rivet it back together with four 3/32" pop rivets (ref. total mat'l thk. 0.070"). There is not much space for the rivet gun, so lightly hold the rivet in place with needle nose pliers as shown. Obviously, once two are installed, untwist the wire and pull it through, to install the other two.



If the carriage bolts were removed, they may now be reinserted. Pry the case slightly apart and use needle nose pliers to align the bolt. Please note that the case must be pried to the amount shown in the photo otherwise the bolt will interfere with the fan blade and concave "hump" and it won't want to go.



Installation is reverse of disassembly. Please comment any additional ideas.

If the balancing of the motor is lost or is not satisfactory, connect the motor to a power supply and adjust the voltage so that the motor feels most shaky, then set your smartphone camera to "slow motion" mode, and record the motor running. Play back the video and note what part of the fan seems to pull to the outside (pay attention to the set screw location for reference). Place balancing weight(s) on the opposite side, then repeat until satisfactory. Twisting a flathead screwdriver in the speed nut is the easiest way to take them off (shown in the top image).

New 6v heater motors are available here. dennis-carpenter.com
You will have to tap the fan off the shaft. You can cut the new shaft shorter with a Dremel tool.

The 1940 underseat heater has 2 cores. I have photos and an AutoCad drawing to remake the lower pan.

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  New6vHeaterMotor.jpg (136.03 KB)


  heaterpanweb.jpg (195.73 KB)