Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Tube could break or be kinked and blocked so don't pull or twist very hard on the tube. There is most likely a layer of at least sediment and rust but more likely a calcified mass holding the bulb in position. With luck, using something like a mild lime remover such as CLR from the supermarket or one of the harsher products typically sold at the hardware store can free it but too often, in worst cases, the bulb will still be damaged or you have to resort to destroying the bulb by drilling it out. Some have had luck with penetrating fluid but some of those won't do much with calcium and lime.

I would suggest protecting the side of block and starter motor from what spills and then making some kind of retaining dam using modeling clay or making some such item out of metal or plastic and siliconing it to the head around the opening so you can get the lime remover in a pool that will surround the bulb and be able to stay liquid for several hours to days. If that is not possible you can try to also use some kind of squirt bottle with rags wrapped around the tube next to the block to try to get a very wet contained area and squirt more every so often to keep a sufficient amount of liquid so that the bulb can soak for a while. Make sure plenty gets in the hole and past the flange on the bulb. .Others may have better ideas that worked for them as stuck tubes are a too common occurrence but so too are sacrificed bulbs.

Dribble some penetrant like Marvel or Kroil around the Bulb so it seeps in. Not going to hurt the water jacket or coolant to have a few drops.

Since it’s moving try to push/pull it straight out/in by hand as it should loosen up. DONT twist it more than a few degrees!

Your in/out movement should be breaking up small mineral/corrosion particles between the water jacket hole and the outside of the bulb body.

Make sure to release the helical jacket/line from any clamps so it is relieved of any strain. It moves with bulb that it’s welded to.

Easy goes it and try to do it by hand without tools which can bugger it up.

Seems like my post was simultaneous with HH56…same advice

Ok got it out without to much force..all in good shape and coolant dames into pan…now I can see there is no way to slide either end out of gauge mounting bracket…the hole is way too small to pull sensor bulb and nut thru it and I can’t pull it thru the other way! This is a 41 110 so I don’t know how they did it…it looks to me that the cable would have to be removed from the thermostat brass somehow???

The gauge is welded to the helical cable/tube which is welded to the bulb.

DONT try any further disassembly.

Snake the bulb through the firewall pass through carefully as you feed the gauge into the driver area. Once it is through the firewall then you have an assembly.

Lay it on a bench like a piece of sculpture and don’t try to coil it up. Just use a toothbrush or brass brush to clean up the cable/bulb. Check the threads. Do your boiling pot of water test to thermometer test the stroke and range.

Only use simple green and Q-tips to lightly clean the visible gauge faceplate etc.

When reinstalling it, lightly brush/dress the pipe threads on the bulb and the water jacket. Then use a silicone sealant lightly around the bulb thread.

That is unfortunate. DM37 has good advice but if the working fluid has leaked out that solution won't work. Packard probably bought the completed 2 gauge assy from a vendor and expected mechanics to just change the assy or perhaps new service gauges had smaller nuts and the original was to be destroyed to get it out and install the new.

Someone else must have dealt with this and might have a suggestion. If you can slide the gauge away from the plate you might be able to use a Dremel to slot the plate for the tube to slide thru. Done carefully the gauge retaining nut might be enough to hold the slot back together or a patch could be made. If that is not feasible you might call the shop you are sending the gauge to and explain the problem. They might tell you how or where to cut something or to send the gauge, plate and all. Of couse that means dealing with the other gauge and if it too is mechanical the same problem might be present on that gauge.

Yea I’m stuck now I think…it’s like I would have to send entire assembly …as oil assembly is also on same gauge

Remove the two gauge assy as a group and clean it up on your bench that way. You can attach a separate new pressure line to the oil gauge in the group configuration.

If you REALLY need to remove the temperature gauge from the assembly, contact me and I can post a more draconian method (dremel with cutting wheel through the sheet metal case edge) but don’t overdo this if it works

Ok thanks…Packard gauge rebuilder said I can cut it at sensor bulb and sent it out to him no problem…I appreciate all your help..going to mail it out today..!!

I thought you said it was working. Maybe I misunderstood. If it is do a temperature test and maybe it’s ok and all you have to do is put a new oil pressure tube on. Please clarify

No Temperature gauge does not work….seems all in tack but does nothing…I don’t think it’s ever been rebuilt….