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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#11
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Pgh Ultramatic
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Quote:

moodydavid16 wrote:
Quote:

Why not measure the area (diameter) of the plunger, and necessary compressed length for the spring, and the spring rate, to calculate the necessary pressure to open the relief port?

This is where my thinking was flawed; I was thinking the spring needed to have the same pushback as the set oil pressure; which would only be the case if the face of the piston had an area of 1 inch which it does not.


Not only that, but also assuming 1 inch of necessary spring travel.

If a 40 lb/in spring is against a piston with 1 sq in. area and said piston will relieve when the spring is compressed one inch, then the math works out easily. In this example the valve would regulate to 40 PSI.

Posted on: Today 5:19
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#12
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moodydavid16
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Quote:

53 Cavalier wrote:
I'm not an engine builder so can't speak to what the oil should/could look like when breaking in one of these engines. I believe it's perfectly normal to see some small particles. Do you have pictures of what you're seeing in the oil? Have you changed the oil to see if the oil stays clear after your initial few hours of running?


I have changed the oil 3 times the first two times was because I noticed it was being diluted with fueland wanted to flush all that out-fixed that issue- looked fine then just a little sooty.
Third time was because I noticed it was getting really dirty and had lots of metal. I kept a couple samples from that change, one from the filter area and one from what was drained from the sump. I can try and get a few pictures later today.
There is no large chunks; it’s all very fine matter, just a lot of it. I have a magnet on the outside of the canister. I noticed it has caught a lot of matter.

Posted on: Today 9:12
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#13
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53 Cavalier
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A bit unnerving for sure! Metallic paint can be nice, metalic oil not so much!

I find it a bit interesting that you didn't have so much metal and then you did. Was the fuel pump leaking into the crankcase? Maybe the first two times the engine just hadn't run long enough for the metal to show up? Fuel obviously not a good lubricant, maybe this is the cause your issue?

What all was part of your rebuild? (Thinking of the potential sources of your metal.)

Mains?
Rod Bearing?
Wrist Pin Bushings?
Rings?
Pistons?
Cylinders bored? Honed?
Camshaft bearings?

Other than the metal in your oil, does the engine seem to start and run fine?

Post some pics and I'll send them to a engine builder I know who is also a Packard guy. He'll be able to provide some insight I'm sure.

Seems to me there are two options at this point. 1. Run the engine more with a couple more changes and see if the metallic flakes begin to diminish. 2. Pull the pan and check the mains, rod bearings and have a look at the cylinder walls to see if anything looks suspect. It would seem to me that those would be the three areas that would generate any significant amount of metallic flake. Possibly coming from your oil pump I suppose if there is something tight there.

Posted on: Today 9:56
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