Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hi,
I recently got rid of the condenser and contact breaker (English = points) on my 55 400 and fitted a Pertronix 1183 kit with the standard coil at the moment and all seems well, has anyone else gone this way and if so is has anyone fitted the matching Flamethrower 40kv coil..? Think the plug gaps would need to be increased.
Also does anyone have any tips for removing the headlight switch without the special tool J5986, it seems impossible and my dash lights don't work and I think the problem is there. Or does anywhere make a repro of this tool which can be purchased.
Regards & thanks,

Dave UK.

I generally don't favor modifications but did install a Pertronix on my 56 Carib because I couldn't remove the distributor and don't like to install points with the distributor in place for a variety of reasons. I retained the original factory coil. Performance is fine, no better and no worse than with the traditional ignition system. Pertronix may prove to have terrific reliability but with a point system you can almost always survive a failure in 10 minutes with a point file or perhaps a new condensor. Thus I carry the materials to convert back in the glove box.

Hi Owen,
Yes I have kept mine in my trunk (English = boot) toolbox just for those little roadside emergencies. Are you interested in the thief proof numbers from 55 if so I can mail mine to you
Dave UK.

The dash bezel tool is reproduced. Info is here:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... opic.php?post_id=8084#forumpost8084 and his contact info is in Packard Directory, vendors.

You can also make your own if you have access to 1/4inch hexagonal stock used for standoffs in electronic and other equipment. Just drill the center out to 3/16 and slide over the shaft.

The rheostat section has probably failed or contacts became loose or dirty--a common problem with the switches.

Thanks for the info I will probably make one now, going to try and squirt some contact cleaner up there first, I can just see the rheostat part lying on my back with my head next to the brake pedal, stuff up there looks very difficult to get at...
Dave UK

Are you interested in the thief proof numbers from 55 if so I can mail mine to you

Yes Dave, I'd be interested in your thief-proof and vehicle number. Send in a PM probably the best.

HH56s suggestion of 1/4 inch hex stock is a good one. Don't forget to disconnect the battery as that headlight switch has a hot wire even with ignition switch off.

I made a tool from a standoff like HH56 indicates above.
In the absense of a tool i have useda pair of very small jewler type needle nose pliers or regular mechanics needle nose pliers with exra long jaws.

Most likely u should be able to cure the problem by applying silicone GREASE (NOT the spary) to the rhestat and twist the knob back-and-forth to scrub it in. I'll have to dig out a spare sw i have to look closer but i think there is another contact area that needs to be adressed too.

Thanks for the advice, I already tried the long needle nose way but it is too tight and they just twist so I'm going to make a tool at work. Going to try the squirty stuff today. On the same subject with the light switch pulled all the way out should the front markers (sidelights) be on or off...? mine come on with the tail lights and side body lights when pulled out to the first notch and go off again when pulled all the way out, tail light and side markers remaining on with the headlights.
Dave UK.

Sounds like the lights are working properly. The front sidelights (parking lights here) only come on in the first notch.