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Yes after I revinstalled valves I rotated the valves piston to top dead center and with feeler guage and cold engine I set intakes to 9 and exhaust to 12 for clearance…I believe that was correct?

That valve adjustment should be close enough, but I would re-check each valve's clearance after doing the following: Remove the spark plugs and try rotating the engine so as to open each valve in turn and and blow air compressed air thru the port and spark plug hole with the valve off its seat to clear any possible debris. Any debris on the valve seats or faces will cause them to leak. Grit or other debris in the valve guides may cause the valves to hang up, especially if the springs are weak. If if that procedure doesn't improve compression, try using a pump oil can to squirt about a tablespoon of motor oil into each cylinder, then rotate the engine several rounds with the plugs out to spread the oil on the cylinder walls. Then re-check the compression. If it is significantly higher, it may indicate worn, dry, or stuck rings. Don't put too much oil in the cylinders, or it will squirt out of the spark plug holes with considerable force when the engine is rotated. If you have the manifold assembly off the engine, you should be able to hear air leaking past the valves at the ports when cranking the engine with the starter. The engine should spin rapidly with the plugs out and the compression gauge applied to any one cylinder. I would want oil in the crankcase when doing these procedures. Spinning the engine using the starter with the plugs out should pump oil throughout the engine within 30 seconds or so. I wouldn't use the starter more than 30 seconds at a time with the plugs out, or 15 seconds with them in.

Ok did all that after recsetting lash correctly I’m up to 40 psi and then with a tablespoon of oil some the cylinders raise to 55 psi some remain at 40…. I did hear the air escaping on my last test…so I guess the valves are not sealing…I think it may be the intake valves…when I lapped them the contact point was at the top of the valve….but pictures of when I removed the valve also show a very high point of contact on the intakes…I don’t know why that is…had intakes ground at 30 degrees..so that is correct..I’m assuming the seats are also 30.. unless somebody changed the angle years ago…I don’t know if there is way to lower contact point ..the seat is about 1/8 ..

EDIT
So I got a leak down detector…I ran 40 psi into all cylinders…I could only hear air escaping from the exhaust valve on cylinder 3. While maintaining 40 psi into all the other cylinders the air was escaping out of the oil fill/breather tube ….at 40 psi pumped in ipthey all held at about 10 psi so I don’t know what is acceptable for loss at rings but I’m guessing maybe the rings are bad..I probably was able to get 60 psi before the valve job as the manifold was on and engine was hot…just assuming…I really don’t know if the other valves are all good as air is escaping through rings but like I said it was only the one valve that leaked during testing..I hope this helps in any advice tks!

Did you grind the valves but not the seats?

I grinder all the exhaust seats but just lapped the intakes as they appeared pretty decent

It's necessary to grind both valves and seats. Valve guides and valve stems must be in good condition to get a good job. The valve seat should contact the valve face near the center of the valve face, and the face of the seat should be narrower than the face of the valve. All of the valve grinding equipment must be in good condition to get a good job. The shop manual should have the specs for seat angles and seat width. Valve springs need to be within spec to get good valve action. You're creating a high pressure, metal-to-metal seal between the valve and its seat, and there is no room for error or a leak is certain. Even a very slight leak will soon lead to a burned or warped valve.

Ok my valve guides on intakes were good. ..I replaced all the exhaust guides as they were bad…I only have air leaking from that one valve as far as I can determine…I will re-examine that valve seal…I have graphite valve seat cutter by neway and it works well…I can’t figure out a way to lower the seal on the intakes? I don’t think they are leaking but hoe can I lower seal if needed…the contact point was high on them when I pulled them so that’s how they were before I got them ground..?

For what it's worth, I'm seeing the same on the intake valve seats on the engine I'm working on. The seat location is definitely near the outer edge of the valve. The only way I know of to move the seat location down the valve face (on the intake) is to do a 20 degree angled bevel. I did that on mine, but even then I wasn't able to move the seat location much. Just enough to get it off the edge.

To me it sounds like the rings/cylinders are the bigger issue. If you were getting that low of compression before the rebuild, then I would assume rings are worn and/or cylinders are worn.

I haven't put the engine in working on back together yet, so I can't report on my valve work is. But I'm hoping all is well. Your experience has me a little worried.

Consult the shop manual for correct valve seating. Most valve seat angles are 45 degrees, or 45/44. The Packard intake valves are 30 degree.

Quote:

Shop manual is 45 exhaust, 30 intake.