Re: hph's 55 Clipper Project
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Forgot to mention that I re-adjusted the handbrake. Previously was too loose. Per Ross's video, you can just pull the cables out by hand and keep them taught with vise-grips. Check that both wheels still spin the same as the original brake shoe adjustment. Then run up the slack in the equalizer until both cables are just taught. Again check the wheel spin. Take the vise-grips off then confirm that the handbrake cable is not too difficult to pull to the first notch. It will be slightly difficult to pull from the resting position, due to the geometry of the four-bar linkage.
I also adjusted my front brakes a couple clicks inward. Before, the shoes were barely coasting on the drums. Now the wheel will spin about 1 turn when I give it a decent spin. Even less pedal travel now, and the brake lights turn on sooner.
Posted on: 6/10 9:29
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1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
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Re: hph's 55 Clipper Project
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Trick my dad showed me was to step on brake pedal when puting on parking brake. Still do it that way
Posted on: Yesterday 9:14
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Re: hph's 55 Clipper Project
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Quote:
Because drum brakes are still a bit new to me, I want to be sure I'm setting things up correctly. How much drag is too much? On the fronts I've been setting mine like Ross shows in his video....spinning the wheel and hearing a a very light drag on the shoes. But not enough to stop the spin. On the rears I find it much harder to gauge because of the resistance in the axle and driveline. Overall the rears end up feeling much tighter than the fronts.
Posted on: Yesterday 9:59
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Kevin
1954 Clipper Super Panama "Van Halen" | Registry | Project Blog 1938 Super 8 1605 | Registry | Project Blog 1953 Clipper Deluxe Club Sedan "Rusty McRustface" | Registry | Project Blog 1956 Packard The Four Hundred "Tanner" | Registry | Project Blog |
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Re: hph's 55 Clipper Project
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I have new shoes on worn drums so I’m setting mine generally where it’s barely touching at the least, but it’s rubbing somewhat at a different angle. Since the shoes need to break in and the pedal travel is a lot before they start to engage.
As long as the fronts both feel the same as well as the rears, and hopefully also about the same front to rear, then the braking should be stable enough, then if you get in and have to press the pedal a fair amount for the brake lights to come on, try adjusting each wheel in a couple clicks to see if it still spins, and if so, then the pedal travel should be better then. Tighten to where you can’t turn the wheel, minus 7 clicks, is often pretty good; for used brakes that are worn evenly, a couple more, for example Ross does 10 in the video. New stuff is not arced quite right so you want it as close as possible without the wheels getting stiff. Older stuff is broken in so it should be more of a coast. My thoughts, anyway.
Posted on: Yesterday 12:43
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1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
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